Well folks, I’m just writing policies for an Operator and wondering if anyone would insert a tourqe policy into the driver’s handbook or leave it to the operations team and service provider?
Ta in advance
Based c check if wheel nuts, be aware of the torque procedure- they don’t need to do it it just adds complexity
Checking the torque on wheel nuts ?
Too many drivers wont even change sidelight/number plate lights, so good luck with that.
(I draw the line at Actros headlight bulbs, just too much faff when I need to get going)
If you’re going to insist drivers do it…
Make it a mix of words and a diagram to show the correct sequence; make sure YOU supply the setting for each type of asset: trailer, artic unit, rigid and make sure they are axle-manufacturer specific, not vehicle/trailer manufacturer specific.
Deliver a TBT and get signatures from all attendees
Alternatively, have retorquings done by the people doing the monthly tyre-inspections, and tell drivers to wait for a 30 minute retorque by the fitter when they have had a wheel removed.
You’ll find examples of retorque policies by searching online.
Some drivers would (a) not know how to use a torque wrench (b) Would not know which way a wheel nut tightens …
Also if you are constantly torquing the wheels to say 700nm ,since for some odd reason people like to go a little bit more for good luck ,all you are doing is slowly stretching the threads …
Most manufacturers will have an inspection torque …So as an example during an inspection if the wheel is removed torque to 700nm .if the wheel is not removed an inspection torque of 595 nm is used .obviously if the nut moves then you have issues
Also you will have to have the torque wrench calibrated min of twice a year ,It would need to be wound back to zero after every use so as not to damage the spring and knacker it ,Also if you have multiple vehicles leaving at the same time and only 1 torque wrench
Best to stick to what the driver is required to do
Drivers normally have trouble counting the wheel nuts, really wouldn’t bother with a drivers torque policy. A visual check is all the driver needs, provide them with some pictures of what a missing/loose wheel nut looks like, possibly get a bikini clad woman to point at the wheel nuts so they will actually look at the picture.
Could also make it into a dot-to-dot picture, give the driver something to do when he’s done 8 minutes on a walk around but company policy states 30 minutes.
If wheels are put on Properly they NEVER need re-tourqe as they will NEVER come loose, That also applies if you only use a wheel brace Fact, Have never tourqed wheel nuts in my life that includes Left and Right threaded studs.
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Totally wrong, like a cylinder head, torque should be checked after a few heat cycles. Components can settle after heating and cooling.
If its wrong lol , Maybe you can tell me why in the last 50+ years i have NEVER had a wheel come loose then, They have all been tightened with a Wheel Brace , Not a Air Gun that every T–t uses thease days, Grease threads on BSF, Oil on Metric,
This Torque Bollox was to cover the Arse of Useless / Thick Tyre
Fitters winding them on Dry with a F-----g Air Gun, Take you have never watch them change tyres then ? try it sometime, I have allways used Tyre Fitters to do just that, Never to fit a wheel to a vehicle ffs.
Its Fit and Forget if FITTED PROPERLY, No torque wrench required lol. Again anything with Nut Markers fitted shows sign of Dodgy Maintaince in my Book, ( All the H&S in the UK has come from the Yanks )
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And your qualifications are…?
So why do cylinder heads need re-torqueing?
If you’ve never had wheel nuts come loose after your set and foget method, you’re very lucky, but if you don’t check them, how do you know?
I think you only come here to troll. Every post you make is an aggressive, put down and bragging about how you are better than anyone else.
All signs of insecurity.
My my, you are a happy chappy.
Perhaps you could enlighten us ‘more mature’ fellas just what is the CORRECT way to put a wheel on.
Me ? If a torque wrench is available, I’ll take 450 lb ft, if at the side of the road, tighten 'em and I sure as hell would re check them after a 100 miles. If a tyre fitter was doing the job I think I would be just a bit more polite than you seem to be…and I’d still re check them after 100 miles. MUCH MUCH better to be safe.
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I’m with you GoM, but that might just be the difference between us professionals and the rest. 
Run them up with the air gun no problem. Don’t rattle them. Then torque or brace the last bit.
Main thing is the threads, studs, rim and hub surfaces are in good nick and clean as possible.
No oil or grease on threads rubbish.
And if new studs and nuts have been fitted they would certainly need re checking in my opinion.
Never had a wheel loose.
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Slightly off topic but I can admit to tightening down a cylinder head once with the inch drive gun. On a Merc 1823, was going for scrap but had to drive out the garage 
Definitely NO oil or grease.
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I am no Troll lol. I have been around vehicles All my life Repairing them , Then operating them from 1972, yes never had wheels come loose, and have never used a torque wrench to tighten any of them. Wheel Brace does the job fine, that is why all the vehicles have them so the Drivers can change a wheel. Yes there are still a few real Drivers about,
Torque on cylinder heads, do they Not have a gasket between the Head and Block all the one`s i have changed do, ref retorque, What’s the gasket look like between the wheels / hub look like as never seen one lol
As for all that Bragging Bollox you are on about thank you very much, What you see is what you get, I have never ask anyone to do something i Cannot Do, that includes using a Wheel Brace lol
I don’t suffer fools gladly, Maybe the aggressive comes from operating Commercial Vehicles for the last 50+ years as i have come across some right Stars in this time not All were drivers though?
By the way, I will never write a book? because you would need a Forklift to carry it.
Thank you for your ‘contribution’, I feel sure us old experienced fellas will treat any of your future contributions accordingly. 
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From Michelin
"After fitting the wheel on the vehicle, the wheel nuts must be tightened with a calibrated torque device to the torque setting defined by the vehicle manufacturer…
…
…
Lubricate:
- the threads of the wheel nuts with a drop of oil
- never lubricate the mating face of nuts or washers
…
…
Over-tightening is often just as harmful as not tightening enough
…
…
After a period of thirty minutes, or after 50 – 100 kilometres of use, the wheel nuts should be rechecked for tightness using a calibrated torque device. When the retorque is carried out, the nuts should not be slackened off and then retightened. They should simply be checked."
Operating advice for truck, coach and bus tyres | Michelin
I wouldn’t argue with any of that.
#1 Follow truck/trailer maker’s instructions.
#2 Lub threads but not those surfaces that rely on friction (Unless contrary to #1)
#3 Recheck torque. (Unless contrary to #1)
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dont you know that you have to slather blooming copper grease all over the mating surface of the hub before you put you ally wheel back on. That way you need a block of wood and a club hammer to get the blooming wheel back off in 6 months time
“lightly coat the wheel pilot or hub pads with a non-water-based lubricant, such as Freylube or equivalent, to minimize corrosion build up. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE FACE OF THE WHEEL OR THE HUB.”
Alcoa
Slathering grease all over components next to the brakes seems a little ill advised to me.