Hello!
Glenn from Sweden here.
So I bought a 1972 Ford D Series Custom Cab 0707 recently and could use some assistance since I’m new to lorries/trucks and diesels.
History: The previous owner said that the truck has been sitting for a long time but that the engine has been renovated (in the past) and started earlier this year. He also told me that there most likely is some kind of air leak in the fuel system as the engine dies out within a couple of minutes. Last year he moved the truck with a tractor so the brakes don’t seem to be stuck.
A couple of days ago I got the truck delivered with a hauler to my door but since our driveway is kind of narrow and the garage is positioned at an angle he couldn’t unload it all the way in. In other words the truck is sitting in a bad spot and we need to move it to free up some parking space.
Problems he informed me about that need to be sorted:
I manufactured a push rod so we at least could try to get it out of the way, but when we tried to move it felt as if the brakes was semi engaged. Does the air system have to be pressurized to release the brakes? He told me that it didn’t. Of course the truck have been sitting for a long time so… (update: I managed to lift the truck and check if the wheels were stuck but they weren’t)
The clutch seem to be stuck. I can push the pedal 2/3 of the way very easily but then it stops and will not go any further. I’ve looked underneath but nothing happens with the linkage when someone sits in the cab and pushes the clutch. Could it be that the push plate has rusted on the flywheel, or could it have something to do with the clutch cylinder mounted near the bell housing? Is this a common problem with these trucks? (the truck has been sitting outside)
He also told me that the instrument cluster won’t come to live. I have checked the fuses but they all seems fine. The headlights and side markings works.
There are no markings on the dashboard for all the switches and I have no clue what switches and buttons operates what. I have found some owners manuals on eBay but I’m very unsure of which one to buy. Some of the manuals says 1971 on the cover but this truck is a -72 and I don’t know what have changed between the models. Even if I find the right manual it will take a week before I get it delivered. I will snap some photos later if someone can point me in the right direction?
I’m sorry if this post seem to be written in a haste, but it was 
Any help would be much appreciated!
/Glenn
Glenn74Swe:
Hello!
Glenn from Sweden here.
So I bought a 1972 Ford D Series Custom Cab 0707 recently and could use some assistance since I’m new to lorries/trucks and diesels.
History: The previous owner said that the truck has been sitting for a long time but that the engine has been renovated (in the past) and started earlier this year. He also told me that there most likely is some kind of air leak in the fuel system as the engine dies out within a couple of minutes. Last year he moved the truck with a tractor so the brakes don’t seem to be stuck.
A couple of days ago I got the truck delivered with a hauler to my door but since our driveway is kind of narrow and the garage is positioned at an angle he couldn’t unload it all the way in. In other words the truck is sitting in a bad spot and we need to move it to free up some parking space.
Problems he informed me about that need to be sorted:
I manufactured a push rod so we at least could try to get it out of the way, but when we tried to move it felt as if the brakes was semi engaged. Does the air system have to be pressurized to release the brakes? He told me that it didn’t. Of course the truck have been sitting for a long time so…
The clutch seem to be stuck. I can push the pedal 2/3 of the way very easily but then it stops and will not go any further. I’ve looked underneath but nothing happens with the linkage when someone sits in the cab and pushes the clutch. Could it be that the push plate has rusted on the flywheel, or could it have something to do with the clutch cylinder mounted near the bell housing? Is this a common problem with these trucks? (the truck has been sitting outside)
He also told me that the instrument cluster won’t come to live. I have checked the fuses but they all seems fine. The headlights and side markings works.
There are no markings on the dashboard for all the switches and I have no clue what switches and buttons operates what. I have found some owners manuals on eBay but I’m very unsure of which one to buy. Some of the manuals says 1971 on the cover but this truck is a -72 and I don’t know what have changed between the models. Even if I find the right manual it will take a week before I get it delivered. I will snap some photos later if someone can point me in the right direction?
I’m sorry if this post seem to be written in a haste, but it was
Any help would be much appreciated!
/Glenn
take a photo of the handbrake in the dash panel , FORD had several different types of handbrake over the years , it will help identify it. i think 0707’s are air over hydrailic . i cant help you much with the mechanicals though
tony
tonyj105:
Glenn74Swe:
Hello!
take a photo of the handbrake in the dash panel , FORD had several different types of handbrake over the years , it will help identify it. i think 0707’s are air over hydrailic . i cant help you much with the mechanicals though
tony
Thanks for the reply Tony!
The handbrake seems “springy” when I pump it, and it returns the mechanism when I twist it so I think it’s ok. I’m more worried about the main brakes.
Crikey that takes me back a few years. Vehicle is definitely an air/hydraulic type, with an air foot brake operating a hydraulic braking system to the wheels. The handbrake you had to pull out and twist 90 degrees IIRC which operated a ratchet that i think was air operated, but may be wrong as to actual workings as it was a good 35 years or since last worked on those. Fuel lift pumps used to cause problems with getting air into the fuel system, so worth checking that and making sure no slight blockages on fuel lines, or any signs of loose pipework that can introduce air into the suction side of the fuel system as this will cause the engine to cut out after a while, as the CAV fuel systems do not self bleed. there are bleed screws on the top of the filter assembly and also on the fuel pump. Hope this helps a little.
jshepguis:
Crikey that takes me back a few years. Vehicle is definitely an air/hydraulic type, with an air foot brake operating a hydraulic braking system to the wheels. The handbrake you had to pull out and twist 90 degrees IIRC which operated a ratchet that i think was air operated, but may be wrong as to actual workings as it was a good 35 years or since last worked on those. Fuel lift pumps used to cause problems with getting air into the fuel system, so worth checking that and making sure no slight blockages on fuel lines, or any signs of loose pipework that can introduce air into the suction side of the fuel system as this will cause the engine to cut out after a while, as the CAV fuel systems do not self bleed. there are bleed screws on the top of the filter assembly and also on the fuel pump. Hope this helps a little.
Great info there 
I will definitely change the fuel lifter pump. I tried to operate the plunger but it felt very loose and had no resistance at all despite pumping it like crazy. From what I have read online it could have something to do with the cam shaft not being in the right position, but I remember the former owner saying he had problems pumping up fuel with the plunger.
I can confirm that the handbrake is mechanical. Right?
Update on the clutch:
I sprayed the plunger with brake fluid and waited for a while, then I grabbed the largest wrench I could find and tried to move the clutch release arm (sorry, don’t know the technical term for a lot of parts but if you look at the picture you’ll understand).
Sorry, it’s upside down.
I hardly had to force it at all but it popped loose at once so I tried the clutch pedal at it seemed to work! However, the pedal don’t have that much resistance. I can push it all the way down using my hand. There IS resistance but not as much as I have to use my leg.
Video link: https://youtu.be/MEFqPbHF1Ms
Video link on how much clutch play there is: https://youtu.be/X-GL_kRNMTw Sorry for the upright format. I had to use the phone standing up.
Question: is there a separate filling point for the clutch hydraulic fluid, or is it the same as the brakes (next to the fuses)?
Clutch reservoir is separate to brake reservoir i’m sure the brake reservoir will be on the side of the chassis connected to the servo. The handbrake linkage is mechanical as per your photo but i think when you trace linkage back it goes to a ratchet system that is air operated.
jshepguis:
Clutch reservoir is separate to brake reservoir i’m sure the brake reservoir will be on the side of the chassis connected to the servo. The handbrake linkage is mechanical as per your photo but i think when you trace linkage back it goes to a ratchet system that is air operated.
Yep, you’re right about the ratchet system. I just meant it wasn’t any hydraulics involved.
I’m a bit confused about the clutch system. Like you say I have two reservoirs on the side of the chassis, but on the cap (on the reservoir besides the fuses below the windshield) it says “brake fluid”. Are the two reservoirs on the side of the chassis for the clutch?
No the reservoirs on the chassis are for the brakes, fluids for the brake and clutch systems are the same. Found a little cutaway drawing on the net item d is the brake master cylinder assembly.
Crumbs.I was blond last time I touched a Ford D series.
I recall the handbrakes were a pig.You were supposed to give a gentle pull and twist through up to 90 degrees.However if you were too vigorous with your pull there was no travel left to pull further towards you to twist and release.
Gidders:
Crumbs.I was blond last time I touched a Ford D series.
I recall the handbrakes were a pig.You were supposed to give a gentle pull and twist through up to 90 degrees.However if you were too vigorous with your pull there was no travel left to pull further towards you to twist and release.
The handbrake didn’t hold the vehicle on a hill on the one I drove!
Check there is not a blocked gauze in the lift pump and our late D series had a small sediment bowl before the lift pump also with a gauze. The latter caught me out years ago. You might also have a leak on the suction pipe or crap on intake. You could try a low pressure blow back.
Hi Glenn before tilting the cab push down on the gearstick and turn it through 180 degrees good luck with the restoration cheers Ray
Thank you all for your input, it really helps
Great picture there of the chassis. Didn’t have that one in my collection.
I will check the fuel lifter for clogs.
Turn the gear stick 180° you say? How? My gear stick is bolted at the bottom. I usually put it in first or third gear and that seem to do the trick, however a sticker on the wall behind the seat says to put it in neutral. But that doesn’t work as the stick hits the floor when tilting the cab.
I have now ordered a owners manual.
As of now we’ve spent about four hours trying to get the truck into the garage. It’s a tight fit, about 10 centimeters to spare and of course we didn’t get it in straight so it’s kinda jammed in the “doorway” 
Well well… A couple of hours more and it will be in there.
Thanks Ray!
Oh yeah, and some idiot have welded the lug nuts to one of the rims 
The handbrake can be released manually by pulling the pawl away from the ratchet with a lever ( NOT YOUR FINGERS )this is situated on the inside of the chassis rail close the rear of the gearbox area, before doing this
you must use a straight bar & chock the wheels as you will have no functioning brakes what so ever, if I remember the clutch reservoir is behind the front panel on the front of the cab held
in place with two screws.
Hope this helps Dave.
Glenn74Swe:
Turn the gear stick 180° you say? How?
Push down into the base & turn, unless someone has bodged it.
dave docwra:
Push down into the base & turn, unless someone has bodged it.
I’ll give it a try tomorrow.
Looking at those wheel nuts you may find there has been other bodge jobs carried out, the gearstick may be another, the brake fluid filler is indeed behind the small panel on the cab front (the diagram shows this at No1), however if this was my restoration I would replace the seals in the Master and Slave cylinders anyway, the less than positive feel to your pedal may mean air in the fluid. As for the fuel system I would work from the tank forward, make sure it hasn’t any sludge, dirty fuel etc inside, you can though bypass the tank by removing the pipe and use a container of fuel in a higher position to gravity feed the fuel pump, if your able to bleed fuel from the pump then it should feed it to the injectors when you spin the engine over, cracking off (loosening) the injector pipe union nuts to all the injectors will also show you if fuel is being pumped from the main fuel pump, if all loose connections start spitting out fuel then tighten each one and hopefully it will start. If you suspect a dodgy lift pump you can also bypass that and run your pipe straight from gravity feed to the main pump just to get her running and repair the other components later. Would love to have a go at it myself, the Manual though will hopefully contain all you need to know. Good luck Franky.
dave docwra:
Glenn74Swe:
Turn the gear stick 180° you say? How?
Push down into the base & turn, unless someone has bodged it.
Certainly that’s the way it worked on mine.