Frankydobo:
Looking at those wheel nuts you may find there has been other bodge jobs carried out, the gearstick may be another, the brake fluid filler is indeed behind the small panel on the cab front (the diagram shows this at No1), however if this was my restoration I would replace the seals in the Master and Slave cylinders anyway, the less than positive feel to your pedal may mean air in the fluid. As for the fuel system I would work from the tank forward, make sure it hasn’t any sludge, dirty fuel etc inside, you can though bypass the tank by removing the pipe and use a container of fuel in a higher position to gravity feed the fuel pump, if your able to bleed fuel from the pump then it should feed it to the injectors when you spin the engine over, cracking off (loosening) the injector pipe union nuts to all the injectors will also show you if fuel is being pumped from the main fuel pump, if all loose connections start spitting out fuel then tighten each one and hopefully it will start. If you suspect a dodgy lift pump you can also bypass that and run your pipe straight from gravity feed to the main pump just to get her running and repair the other components later. Would love to have a go at it myself, the Manual though will hopefully contain all you need to know. Good luck Franky.
The brake fluid will be buggered anyway. It is hydroscopic ( I think that is the posh word!) meaning it ■■■■■ up humidity and will not work as desired. I’d change al the seals in the master cylinders too. That´s good advice.
Thank you all! Now I have something to work with.
Would it be a good idea to install an electric fuel pump like this one https://www.traktordelar.net/batmotor/branslesystem/branslepump-elektrisk-facet-tryck-12v.html instead of troubleshooting the original mechanical one? (Of course I will check the lines as well as suggested).
Or should I just go for a new mechanical one like this https://www.traktordelar.net/batmotor/branslesystem/matarpump-ford-batindustri.html
In case of a diesel runaway I guess an electrical pump would be ideal? (I have watched too many diesel runaways videos on Youtube and I’m dreading the day I will start this thing 
).
It depends how true to the original you want the restoration to be, if it was to be used as a working truck then modifying to electrical components is fine but a new mechanical pump will do you ok if the vehicle isn’t being worked but returned to original spec, you could get kits to replace inner parts such as diaphrams etc but today they may just do full replacements. Be careful if your vehicle has the small glass bowl filter fitted, easy to remove and clean but many a bowl was cracked when replaced if it wasn’t seated properly and the clamp was tightened. I would give every working/moving part a good spray with releasing fluid and let it soak in while you get on with a particular job, surprising what might be freed that had previously seemed ceased solid. Franky.
Frankydobo:
It depends how true to the original you want the restoration to be, if it was to be used as a working truck then modifying to electrical components is fine but a new mechanical pump will do you ok if the vehicle isn’t being worked but returned to original spec, you could get kits to replace inner parts such as diaphrams etc but today they may just do full replacements. Be careful if your vehicle has the small glass bowl filter fitted, easy to remove and clean but many a bowl was cracked when replaced if it wasn’t seated properly and the clamp was tightened. I would give every working/moving part a good spray with releasing fluid and let it soak in while you get on with a particular job, surprising what might be freed that had previously seemed ceased solid. Franky.
Ok thanks Franky. A new mechanical pump isn’t that expensive anyway.
The best way to bleed the fuel system on the D series with an inline injection pump, is via the two bleed screws which are on the top of the pump body just below where the injector pipes are connected.
dave docwra:
The best way to bleed the fuel system on the D series with an inline injection pump, is via the two bleed screws which are on the top of the pump body just below where the injector pipes are connected.
Guess I’ll have to do it the next best way then. That is not a tool that I have but good to know.
Glenn74Swe:
dave docwra:
The best way to bleed the fuel system on the D series with an inline injection pump, is via the two bleed screws which are on the top of the pump body just below where the injector pipes are connected.
Guess I’ll have to do it the next best way then. That is not a tool that I have but good to know.
Glenn, I think you have understood that the “inline injection pump” mentioned above is a tool. Not so, it is part of the injection system on your truck. On the top you will find the 2 bleed screws mentioned. The job is like bleeding domestic central heating radiators to get the air our! But you will need to pump the fuel with the primer on the fuel pump to get the fuel through. I hope this helps.
Dipster:
Glenn, I think you have understood that the “inline injection pump” mentioned above is a tool. Not so, it is part of the injection system on your truck. On the top you will find the 2 bleed screws mentioned. The job is like bleeding domestic central heating radiators to get the air our! But you will need to pump the fuel with the primer on the fuel pump to get the fuel through. I hope this helps.
Haha ok now I get it. That makes it a bit easier.
Almost forgot: I tried to push the gear stick down today but it wouldn’t budge. Could there be models with non-pushable sticks? Why would you push the stick anyway? Just to be able to tilt the cab? The sticker says nothing about pushing it down to tilt the cab. Just to put it in neutral. Am I missing something (again)?
my dad had loads of D series of all sizes from 1966 up to 1979 and the gearstick had to be turned on all of them to alow it to be in neutral to tilt the cab , and as i recall they all worked the same way , push down and turn 180 degrees , if yours doesn’t do that , its been been ’ modified’ .
tony
tonyj105:
my dad had loads of D series of all sizes from 1966 up to 1979 and the gearstick had to be turned on all of them to alow it to be in neutral to tilt the cab , and as i recall they all worked the same way , push down and turn 180 degrees , if yours doesn’t do that , its been been ’ modified’ .
tony
Unless being a left ■■■■■■ makes a difference?
David
I’m almost sure on the smaller D Series as the type you have, putting the stick in a forward gear allowed the cab to tilt but it did give the stick a slight squeeze on the way up, going up isn’t really the problem it is when you lower the cab, it can then catch the gearknob and either damage that or the cab floor. The stick was made to revolve to avoid this and stay safely in neutral, but as I said earlier going off the wheel nuts you may find other ‘quick fixes’ to put it mildly that someone before has carried out for one reason or another, they may even have snapped the stick and had to weld it back in position, hence it won’t revolve. I think this motor will be a learning curve Glenn mainly due to what has been done to it in the past. If I had bought it I would have wanted to hear it running first and even drove it and run through all the gear positions while the engine was running. Too late for that now but also just ensure the engine turns ok by hand a couple of revolutions without any problems before spinning it over using the starter incase it has internal faults. Some assistance from a mechanic mate could be useful for you to point you in the right direction. Hope all goes well Franky.
I drove to the former owner of the truck today as he had a second truck for parts. When looking at that gear stick I noticed that it looked different and I was able to push it down after some lubrication. I believe the other truck was newer as it had more “modern” switches and levers on the dash.
Glenn74Swe:
Almost forgot: I tried to push the gear stick down today but it wouldn’t budge. Could there be models with non-pushable sticks? Why would you push the stick anyway? Just to be able to tilt the cab? The sticker says nothing about pushing it down to tilt the cab. Just to put it in neutral. Am I missing something (again)?
The D series I drove/used all needed the gear lever rotated 180. The gear stick was angled backwards so rotating it meant it leant forward. This allowed the cab base to pass over it. I have never heard of any other system used on these vehicles.
Dipster:
The D series I drove/used all needed the gear lever rotated 180. The gear stick was angled backwards so rotating it meant it leant forward. This allowed the cab base to pass over it. I have never heard of any other system used on these vehicles.
Judging by the paint at the bottom on my gear stick it sure looks like it was meant to go down a bit. I have to investigate my stick a bit more.
The later D series had a different gear lever that allowed the cab to tilt without moving it.
Pete.
Looking at the photo of your stick and resizing it, there is a rusted area that shows it did push in, it just seems its rusted solid, like I said spray everything that moves or you think moves with releasing oil and let it soak in. Some light tapping on that stick will probably get it moving once the oil has worked its way in. Judging by the floor damage it seems it has been stuck for a while and the floor has suffered from the cab being lifted/dropped.
when kipping across the seats 
, oh happy days. 
