I want to change my 8 speeder in my F88 for a converted Fuller to RTOO 13. But with short wheelbase. I had to modify my airtanks more backwards because of the traverse which had to move a bit backwards for a Volvo 16 speed.
I have a bit bigger airtanks mounted because of pulling from time to time an airsuspended trailer, and Volvo is not the fasted to make air.
So I want to go for a Fuller and will so have tha adentage to have two overdrives which makes the revs still more lower.
Has someone experience with that , can I let the traverse where it still is for a Fuller ■■?
Think the Fuller 13 is no longer as an 8 speed Volvo ■■?
Will there be problems with the clutch housing ■■?
I am to slow on motorways I can hold 90kph but at 2200 revs, and thats too noisy nowadays, so i put a visco fan too.
On all our 2 lane motorways with forbidden overtaking for HGV’s even in rain with 3 lanes forbidden, I don’t want to drive slower as 90. Do not to hold up or dalay other drivers which drive on the limiter.
And not at least I will save a lot of fuel on motorways with a 4.10 m high tilt without spoiler.
Only pitty don’t to see how the lay out is in the chassis, if one has pics lets come.
I prefer the Fuller for its double overdrive and no need for clutch use with my bad left knee.
And if i don’t had to reverse the traverse then no hassele with the airtanks.
If I have to do it with the Fuller too ( change the airtanks and traverse) then I go for Volvo’s 16 speeder and clutch pedal with air support.
Then it will be easier to built in the volvo, no need for linkage change or air piping too.
And with 90@ 1800/1850 revs it will be doing too.
Afternoon Tiptop , ive just found this article , i know its a 9 speed but it was completed in a day , click on the link below google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j … q36kDf57WA
Lance Biscomb:
Just put a diff in out of a f10 3.66 ratio it will fit straight in and lengthen you prop 120m
Thanks Lance,
That would be good for a real oldtimer.
But it has to put from time to time loaded trailers on steep hilly roads with gradients of over 10% (European % norm).
I need the low gears as they are now, because with a first step of 10.60 ratio and a diff of 3.66 I would lost a lot of starting power with only 260hp. And without hub reduction, that would be hard for the halfshafts.
But thanks didn’t know that in an old dubble reducion 88 backaxle you could put a simple reduction diff F10 3.66.
ramone:
Afternoon Tiptop , ive just found this article , i know its a 9 speed but it was completed in a day , click on the link below google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j … q36kDf57WA
Thank Remon for the information,
A friend told me before yesterday, someone he knwo has a RTO11613.
If the diameters for the intake axle and clutchhousing match to the Volvo engine, could this be a good solution.
If the 11613 has no bigger diameter as the 9513 it would be nice.
Lance Biscomb:
Just put a diff in out of a f10 3.66 ratio it will fit straight in and lengthen you prop 120m
Thanks Lance,
That would be good for a real oldtimer.
But it has to put from time to time loaded trailers on steep hilly roads with gradients of over 10% (European % norm).
I need the low gears as they are now, because with a first step of 10.60 ratio and a diff of 3.66 I would lost a lot of starting power with only 260hp. And without hub reduction, that would be hard for the halfshafts.
But thanks didn’t know that in an old dubble reducion 88 backaxle you could put a simple reduction diff F10 3.66.
Gr Eric,
Your diff will be a 5.27 or 4.98 a 4.25 f10 diff will do
Lance Biscomb:
Just put a diff in out of a f10 3.66 ratio it will fit straight in and lengthen you prop 120m
Thanks Lance,
That would be good for a real oldtimer.
But it has to put from time to time loaded trailers on steep hilly roads with gradients of over 10% (European % norm).
I need the low gears as they are now, because with a first step of 10.60 ratio and a diff of 3.66 I would lost a lot of starting power with only 260hp. And without hub reduction, that would be hard for the halfshafts.
But thanks didn’t know that in an old dubble reducion 88 backaxle you could put a simple reduction diff F10 3.66.
Gr Eric,
Your diff will be a 5.27 or 4.98 a 4.25 f10 diff will do
Hey Lance,
I have the 4.92, with a 4.25 it would maybe work, that ratio gives in an LB111 90@1800/1850 revs. But the Scanny has a first of 13.50.
Hey, The challenge can start now, will it works or not !!!
Ex Daf RTO9513 instead of an 16 speed Volvo box, which would make it easier to built in.
Because of a pre- 1969 version F88 and not to reposition, air tanks, air pipes, sparewheel holder,
fuel tank supports and the traverse.
Only the propshaft looks as a mightmare, which means that I shall not can do by myself, because of equilibration.
Hopefully easy to find something which easily fits whithout big costs.
Here we go, gives a good avantage against the 8 speed. Box works well and furhter everything goes well.
Only clutch pump and adjusting linkage gave me a headache, took some time to make an arm by myself.
Now it has done about 3/4000 km.
Here we go, gives a good avantage against the 8 speed. Box works well and furhter everything goes well.
Only clutch pump and adjusting linkage gave me a headache, took some time to make an arm by myself.
Now it has done about 3/4000 km.
Eric,
Well, I’m impressed Eric. I’ll bet it drives beautifully by the time you’ve tuned it all up. Robert
![f88%2020006[1].jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/flex013/uploads/trucknetuk/original/3X/c/d/cda3633be33b7f77b759a85de422d2ec2105df65.jpeg)
