Turning 'screwing' a class 1

Hi folks

Passed my test 2 months ago

One thing we didnt learn is how to turn/screw a artic around

I see so many drivers do this in tight tight areas

Im sort of scared to do this , i see so many on you tube were they catch the furring on the cab or they get stuck

What happens if iv nearly completed the turn but run out of room , can i reverse even tho im facing sort of 9 o’clock and my trailer 6 o’clock

Apart from that all good , iv got the reversing due to doing 2 months of shunting

Also any ppl stuck with lockdown and lessons and tests due , it will come stick with it

This was me last lockdown , i was 3 days away from my first lesson then bozza put lockdown in place and all test was cancelled for 4 month’s

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This type of thing :question:

Yes mate thats the one [emoji2962]

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Just keep an eye on the back of your trailer… if its really tight the trailer goes back… so try leave some room

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It ■■■■■ up the trailer tyres so avoid doing it if you can

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mark1284:
It [zb] up the trailer tyres so avoid doing it if you can

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Sometimes it is unavoidable, we have a drop that we do every day where there is no other option.

newhgvguy:
Hi folks

Passed my test 2 months ago

One thing we didnt learn is how to turn/screw a artic around

I see so many drivers do this in tight tight areas

Im sort of scared to do this , i see so many on you tube were they catch the furring on the cab or they get stuck

What happens if iv nearly completed the turn but run out of room , can i reverse even tho im facing sort of 9 o’clock and my trailer 6 o’clock

Apart from that all good , iv got the reversing due to doing 2 months of shunting

Also any ppl stuck with lockdown and lessons and tests due , it will come stick with it

This was me last lockdown , i was 3 days away from my first lesson then bozza put lockdown in place and all test was cancelled for 4 month’s

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

When i had first passed my test this was a bit daunting to me too, but once you have done it half a dozen times its a piece of cake and it can get you out of some tricky spots once you have mastered it, main thing i would suggest is make sure you are straight when you start the turn, one place we go i start parralell to a wall about 2 metres away and take it nice and slow make sure you can see the rear of trailer

First off, try to avoid tight U turns, if possible make it a 3 point turn instead if there’s a convenient gap to back the trailer into.
Also, you see most drivers perform tyre ripping U turns so they can back in on their own side, when often enough a simple blind side reverse would have been easier all round, so practice blind siding, with practice it can become as easy as own side.

If there is no other option but to turn tight don’t rush it, take a moment to evaluate the setting.

Unless you turn ridiculously tight, ie by taking a shunt with the tractor if the tractor can’t make the turn in one, it’s very unlikely for the tractor unit to hit the trailer, what happens when truck and trailer get so close is that the trailer starts getting pushed backwards as you start to go past the right angle point of turn.
This is where the danger starts and why i said to evaluate the turn before you start. If there’s a kerb and open grass to the left and a wall to the right, make the turn clockwise, any trailer overhang swing will safely pass over the grass, comprende?
What is the ground like, when you are turning tight the front and rear wheels of a three axle trailer will be dragging almost sideways over the ground, will the ground stand it? is there likely to be tyre damage?

Couple of other things to consider, what sort of suzie connectors do you have, a sliding Mavis rail is best obviously, but if the lines are mounted on the nearside of the trailer then try to U turn counter clockwise so the lines don’t have to stretch so far.
If you have a hydraulic connection, these are best removed before jack-knifing, and if the lines are likely to foul on something then you can always drop them all off and press the ‘‘shunt’’ valve in on the trailer…the little black button usually found beside the trailer brake, once the lines are off that button will stay in when pressed and release the park brake if the trailer has enough air, remember to reconnect after.

Try and make the U turn empty if at all possible, ie after tipping or before loading, if loaded then transfer the weight off the mid lift axle or tag axle if you have a three axle tractor unit, the lorry turns easier, its kinder to the tyres and suspension and anyway its how proper lorry drivers go about their work, mechanical sympathy.

Don’t be afraid to get out and check things, ie back of trailer for clearance, air lines for fouling, how close tractor fairing is to trailer, during the turn.

Select low gear and it can pay to lock the transmission in M for manual (assuming you don’t work for a numpty outfit that has had Manual programmed out :unamused: ), or select maneuvering mode on the gear selector, you want precise control you don’t want the thing surging or trying to change gear itself half way round.

Keep control, if you release the throttle the clutch disengages automatically, if you are loaded those trailer tyres will be leaning heavily against the turn, as the clutch releases the friction built up in those tyres can drag you back around several yards (if left in normal auto it may try to change gear ay which point the engine is likely to stall and the vehicle be pulled back by tyre friction), so be ready with your hand over the park brake to take charge…assuming you don’t have some new fangled toy lorry with an electric park brake.

It sounds complicated but really all of this will come with practice, if you want to learn and learn the finer arts of lorry driving that is, sadly many are not in the least bothered and never try hence the thousands of unecessarily damaged wagons out there which look 15 years old by the time they have done 2 years work.

One word of warning, when you are at a right angle jack knife, you’re trailer is at its most unstable, the fifth wheel has become a pivot point and your trailer a large high centre of gravity Reliant Robin, so when loaded be gentle on the brakes and throttle.
Worse case…you are in tight yard, forky can only or rather only wants to access one side at a time, tips one side and asks you to turn around so he can tip the other, that is the most dangeous time to be tight turning, easy to lose the load or you could actually flip the lot if things went badly wrong.
If you have no choice but to move when one side is loaded, always try and get a couple of pallets put on or kept on the otherwise empty side, at the front, to help counteract the lean.

If you are paying for the tyres you wouldn’t do it, if you rip off a suzie you won’t do it again, if you clatter a post when the trailer goes backwards, you won’t want to do it, probably easier to reverse, or if we did it on a steel ferry deck, we got the crew to wet the deck after picking any loose chains up.

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Evening yes take your time above are right if you can avoid doing it in the first place your flying. Pop a tyre or pipe its not a good day out!

Wheel Nut:
If you are paying for the tyres you wouldn’t do it, if you rip off a suzie you won’t do it again, if you clatter a post when the trailer goes backwards, you won’t want to do it, probably easier to reverse, or if we did it on a steel ferry deck, we got the crew to wet the deck after picking any loose chains up.

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This ^ ^ ^

Don’t screw trailers round unless you have absolutely no other option and no possibility for a shunt or blind side. It absolutely destroys the tyres if you have got some weight on. The thick black tyre marks you see all over yards are from screwing them round.

It seems to be the latest thing to do by lazy drivers who can’t reverse for [zb], particularly supermarket and store delivery drivers who can’t be arsed disconnecting their lines and using the shunt button to jack it round so all the lines get lathered up to the eyeballs in fifth wheel grease from the front edge of the trailer :unamused: .

If you take a curtain-sider or fridge through more than 90 degrees you stand a good chance of destroying the unit’s air kit as they’re usually close coupled.