I also remember the queen’s visit. Here is one of the Yemeni 'villa’s that were hidden by the wall. They also simply bulldozed some out of the way as I remember.
Black John, who drove for Simons International, who were providing traction for Caravan trading at the time, was in prison in Riyadh for robbing a supermarket. (Yes we were all astounded at his stupidity!) He received a Royal Pardon because of the queen’s visit and was deported. Very lucky!
However, like John and Merlin, I wasn’t above stupidity myself. We all brought VHS tapes back, Top of the Pops, a series on flight called ‘Diamonds in the Sky’, even Coronation Street were all popular. Brother Andy had taped one of my favourite films, Charley Varrick, but had carefully deleted the part where he boxes the compass with the girl!
Some friends had made wine from the freely available grape juice and told me that I needed proper yeast and wine finings. I bought quite a lot whilst at home (obviously not available in Saudi!) and hid it in my underpants toward the end of the flight. The Dhahran customs tended to be less aggressive with the Western flights, but if you arrived at the same time as PIA it was embarrassing to see what they did with their meagre possessions.
The customs guy dug through my bag and found the tapes. Normally they just let you go, but I was sent to a little room, where they played the tapes at about 6 times speed, I was glad Andy had deleted the juicier bits. I must have looked guilty as hell, yeast and wine finings crunching about in my underpants. After about half an hour they let me go, thankfully without searching me. Luckily my ‘booty’ meant that I could make decent wine for the next couple of years. I certainly would never have risked importing any yeast again!
As you left Riyadh for Dammam, there were several ‘bakeries’. These were mud hut type houses with a bread oven in. The flat bread they baked was heavenly, hot at 5 in the morning. If you kept it, by the next day you could cobble a street with it, it had gone so hard.
Geoff Collins and I stopped at a ‘restaurant’ coming out of Riyadh one evening for the usual chicken and rice. Geoff kept saying ‘whats that scratching noise’. Eventually he grabbed my arm and said, ‘good God, look at that’. Up in the roof space was teeming with rats, running about and climbing over one another. We ran out, leaving the other occupants laughing at us.
Our stomachs had become hardened to the ‘fare’. John Longhorn took his brother in law (who worked at BAE and lived on their hermetically sealed compound) on a day trip to Riyadh. We stopped for ‘breakfast’ of spaghetti and lamb stew at the cafe at Hofuf Corner. John and I both liked this.
Ten minutes after leaving, John pulled over. Brother in law had a massive case of the squits. John and I were unaffected. I carried on. I was tipped and headed back for Dammam when I saw John and his passenger still heading for Riyadh. Brother in law had a strained look on his face!
I have a couple of Spencer Tart prints of the Gabel Souk and Baiya Square in Jeddah. I’ll see if I can copy them and get them on here.
John