Hi
I’m have a problem when reversing my stralis. Basicly when reversing in bounces quite badly as if you was taking your foot on and off the clutch yet it is an auto box. It is 2007 truck. I spoke to dealer who said the clutch should be fine as they last forever. The truck has done 550ks. I know the iveco a aren’t liked on here much the truck is great for my use except the reversing.
Would it happen to be a 6x2 that doesn’t lift the mid-axle by any chance??
Have you tried using the manoeuvre setting on the gearbox?
Not driven one for ages but I think you push and hold the reverse gear selector for 2 seconds. Should make it less jumpy.
What’s on the dash display when this is happening
RL?
RH?
Flashing up CL?
Hi
Not sure if it has a reversing manoeuvre setting being 07 as it’s got the gear stick with the left and right buttons and you lift the collar for reverse. It does have high and low RH and RL but it doesn’t seem to make any difference weather in high or low setting. Also no it doesn’t show CL in the dash so the clutch not overheating. Wonder if the cluch is going.
Is this a recent thing with your truck?
As It sounds similar to what happened before the clutch mechanism failed on my Volvo with ishift, I beleive it was the clutch actuator? (not sure if that the right name, but it was the thing that operated the clutch) that was failing not the actual clutch wearing out.
Yes fairly recent. I will try and talk to iveco and ask about the actuator. I sort of know what you mean. Was it an expensive fix ?
Ok, the problem with the clutch theory is it’s less likely to be exclusive to reverse.
The other thing worrying me is I would expect the difference between RL and RH to be very noticeable does the problem occur in both gears and does it feel/sound like they are engaging properly?
Also have a look in the dash diagnostics and see if there are any eurotronic fault codes.
Own Account Driver:
Ok, the problem with the clutch theory is it’s less likely to be exclusive to reverse…
Agreed and its not the same motor, but it does sound similar, In the early stages of the failure it was hardly noticeable in forward just a slight clunk, but reverse was really bad especially slow manoeuvring. It only really become a problem going forward shortly before it gave up completely, I managed to get get from the south of France to Calais before that happened. And thinking about it it had been getting worse for sometime beforehand.
I seem to remember being told it was £600 for the unit plus we put a clutch in it plus labour. But that was a Volvo can’t comment on a Stralis
Own Account Driver:
Ok, the problem with the clutch theory is it’s less likely to be exclusive to reverse.The other thing worrying me is I would expect the difference between RL and RH to be very noticeable does the problem occur in both gears and does it feel/sound like they are engaging properly?
Also have a look in the dash diagnostics and see if there are any eurotronic fault codes.
Only 1 reverse “gear” on a gearbox
Does it do it all the time or mostly when loaded? Sounds like the clutch wearing to me. The dealers are full of cr*p as usual. The clutches do go as they are not an auto box. They have a manually actuated clutch plate which wears like any manual clutch. If the clutch goes you will get a CW warning in the gear selection screen. There is a test the dealer can run to check the pressure on the plate which will tell you how worn it is, but getting someone who knows how to do it is a different thing altogether!
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Ok, the problem with the clutch theory is it’s less likely to be exclusive to reverse.The other thing worrying me is I would expect the difference between RL and RH to be very noticeable does the problem occur in both gears and does it feel/sound like they are engaging properly?
Also have a look in the dash diagnostics and see if there are any eurotronic fault codes.
Only 1 reverse “gear” on a gearbox
I’ve driven dafs with 2 reverse gears and a manoeuvre setting too, also a man with 3 reverse gears and manoeuvre setting.
m1cks:
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Ok, the problem with the clutch theory is it’s less likely to be exclusive to reverse.The other thing worrying me is I would expect the difference between RL and RH to be very noticeable does the problem occur in both gears and does it feel/sound like they are engaging properly?
Also have a look in the dash diagnostics and see if there are any eurotronic fault codes.
Only 1 reverse “gear” on a gearbox
I’ve driven dafs with 2 reverse gears and a manoeuvre setting too, also a man with 3 reverse gears and manoeuvre setting.
I dare say you’ll get some expletive laden post about ranges not gears, or some such nonsense in due course.
It’ll be some sort of nitpicking bell-endery in response to my repeatedly demonstrating he doesn’t have a clue about anything.
muckles:
Own Account Driver:
Ok, the problem with the clutch theory is it’s less likely to be exclusive to reverse…Agreed and its not the same motor, but it does sound similar, In the early stages of the failure it was hardly noticeable in forward just a slight clunk, but reverse was really bad especially slow manoeuvring. It only really become a problem going forward shortly before it gave up completely, I managed to get get from the south of France to Calais before that happened. And thinking about it it had been getting worse for sometime beforehand.
I seem to remember being told it was £600 for the unit plus we put a clutch in it plus labour. But that was a Volvo can’t comment on a Stralis
They do have clutch actuators on them and they do go. They also have another box of gubbins on top that sorts all the shifting and they go/need rebuilding commonly as well. Don’t tend to get that much problem with the actual gears side of things but then they’ve never been subjected to bad changes. TBH the astronic’s not too bad cost wise to put right for most faults as far as these sorts of thing go.
Own Account Driver:
m1cks:
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Ok, the problem with the clutch theory is it’s less likely to be exclusive to reverse.The other thing worrying me is I would expect the difference between RL and RH to be very noticeable does the problem occur in both gears and does it feel/sound like they are engaging properly?
Also have a look in the dash diagnostics and see if there are any eurotronic fault codes.
Only 1 reverse “gear” on a gearbox
I’ve driven dafs with 2 reverse gears and a manoeuvre setting too, also a man with 3 reverse gears and manoeuvre setting.
I dare say you’ll get some expletive laden post about ranges not gears, or some such nonsense in due course.
It’ll be some sort of nitpicking bell-endery in response to my repeatedly demonstrating he doesn’t have a clue about anything.
Reverse is just the selection of an idler gear to make the output shaft turn “backwards”.But then you got split and range so as I said you only got one reverse “gear” same as you only got one first gear but then you got low split,high split then high and low range So you got 4 ratios but only one gear.
And I didnt swear once.
Understand all about 1 gear, splitter, ratios etc. but my problem I bouncing.
Was in at dealers collecting some studs today. Spoke to a fitter who has worked on stralis for years. He said the clutched don’t ware badly at all. They have taken out ones with 500ks and they still really good so he said it may be actuator so should plug in to computer and see what’s needed. It does seem to do in when in high and low and maybe worse when cluch hotter but generally always. Will see what dealer computer says
One I look after is on 800k on the original clutch but obviously it depends on the type of work.
Did you look for any fault codes on the dash display diagnostics, you can access them with the steering wheel buttons?
There’s two actuators, the transmission actuator-that deals with the shifting, which is mounted on the top of the box, and the clutch actuator which engages/disengages the clutch. It’s usually thr former which seems to give the most trouble.
Worth bearing in mind you’re not exclusively tied to a dealer with gearbox problems and there is the option of various ZF specialists.
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
m1cks:
Bking:
Only 1 reverse “gear” on a gearboxI’ve driven dafs with 2 reverse gears and a manoeuvre setting too, also a man with 3 reverse gears and manoeuvre setting.
I dare say you’ll get some expletive laden post about ranges not gears, or some such nonsense in due course.
It’ll be some sort of nitpicking bell-endery in response to my repeatedly demonstrating he doesn’t have a clue about anything.
Reverse is just the selection of an idler gear to make the output shaft turn “backwards”.But then you got split and range so as I said you only got one reverse “gear” same as you only got one first gear but then you got low split,high split then high and low range So you got 4 ratios but only one gear.
And I didnt swear once.
Well done for not swearing but I’m not sure the gearbox fun facts are really helping matters.
Hiab4hire:
Understand all about 1 gear, splitter, ratios etc. but my problem I bouncing.
Was in at dealers collecting some studs today. Spoke to a fitter who has worked on stralis for years. He said the clutched don’t ware badly at all. They have taken out ones with 500ks and they still really good so he said it may be actuator so should plug in to computer and see what’s needed. It does seem to do in when in high and low and maybe worse when cluch hotter but generally always. Will see what dealer computer says
Could be clutch fork rollers of fork bushing worn or seized making clutch actuation “notchy”
The fork seems to wear more than the clutch lining on Merc boxes.Stupid bloody pull bearing usualy fails before the clutch does.
Can’t seem to get fault codes up on dash but will again tomorrow. Never thought of a ZF specialist so if iveco can’t help and it does seem to depend on what mood they in I will find a ZF company. Will keep you posted. Thanks for the help