Just after some advice, got a Leyland Daf 45.130 1995 Horsebox, cab no longer tilts Recently it started cutting out when up to running temperature, had the fuel lines pressure checked all ok, the sedimenter all cleaned out and the fuel filters changed. Still kept doing it, so have had the engine idling speed increased which has stopped some of the issues with it cutting out while stopping in traffic whilst it was under load such as lights on/blowers on.
Now its started cutting out whilst going up or down hills that are more than just a slight slope when I have to stop or slow! It starts coughing and spluttering like there is no fuel getting into the engine, to restart the engine having to pump the accelerator until it starts up. It has also start cutting out after a long journey whilst stopping at traffic lights again. Just want some advice what else to check?
When it cuts out when stopping after a long journey have to leave it to stand for a few minutes for it to restart otherwise it just cranks over but wont fire.
Just after some advice, got a Leyland Daf 45.130 1995 Horsebox, cab no longer tilts Recently it started cutting out when up to running temperature, had the fuel lines pressure checked all ok, the sedimenter all cleaned out and the fuel filters changed. Still kept doing it, so have had the engine idling speed increased which has stopped some of the issues with it cutting out while stopping in traffic whilst it was under load such as lights on/blowers on.
Now its started cutting out whilst going up or down hills that are more than just a slight slope when I have to stop or slow! It starts coughing and spluttering like there is no fuel getting into the engine, to restart the engine having to pump the accelerator until it starts up. It has also start cutting out after a long journey whilst stopping at traffic lights again. Just want some advice what else to check?
When it cuts out when stopping after a long journey have to leave it to stand for a few minutes for it to restart otherwise it just cranks over but wont fire.
Matt
If its got a steel fuel tank remove the sender and check for rust.
I assume its a ■■■■■■■ 6bt (6 seperate rocker covers means yes) if so its most likely got the bosch ve injetcor pump which may have an electric shut off solenoid.
As said probably fuel tank ,personally scrap it ,the horses are probably worth more that the truck …get something newer and reliable …Get a MAN or an IVECO they are brilliant as horseboxes ,do not get a DAF horsebox as I personally hate the things ,never maintained ,arrive at the dealer when they go pearshape as they are never maintained ,and then they never want to pay the bill and then supply 2nd hand parts ,but expect and demand full warranty from the dealer !!! The cab won’t tilt ,nd the owner still moans about how long a job takes ,generally quoting book times for cab that tilts… Yes I don’t like horseboxes…lol
norb:
As said probably fuel tank ,personally scrap it ,the horses are probably worth more that the truck …get something newer and reliable …Get a MAN or an IVECO they are brilliant as horseboxes ,do not get a DAF horsebox as I personally hate the things ,never maintained ,arrive at the dealer when they go pearshape as they are never maintained ,and then they never want to pay the bill and then supply 2nd hand parts ,but expect and demand full warranty from the dealer !!! The cab won’t tilt ,nd the owner still moans about how long a job takes ,generally quoting book times for cab that tilts… Yes I don’t like horseboxes…lol
Love it! It will have the right manufacturer’s name on the side of the body so that’s all that matters. Usually about £20,000 spent on that which means there’s £500 left for the chassis. ISTR from the mists of time a rude letter from Mrs Hoity Toity refusing to pay the MOT prep bill based on something or other to do with her TK’s old fuel gauge sender unit not fitting the replacement fuel tank she had supplied.
norb:
As said probably fuel tank ,personally scrap it ,the horses are probably worth more that the truck …get something newer and reliable …Get a MAN or an IVECO they are brilliant as horseboxes ,do not get a DAF horsebox as I personally hate the things ,never maintained ,arrive at the dealer when they go pearshape as they are never maintained ,and then they never want to pay the bill and then supply 2nd hand parts ,but expect and demand full warranty from the dealer !!! The cab won’t tilt ,nd the owner still moans about how long a job takes ,generally quoting book times for cab that tilts… Yes I don’t like horseboxes…lol
Love it! It will have the right manufacturer’s name on the side of the body so that’s all that matters. Usually about £20,000 spent on that which means there’s £500 left for the chassis. ISTR from the mists of time a rude letter from Mrs Hoity Toity refusing to pay the MOT prep bill based on something or other to do with her TK’s old fuel gauge sender unit not fitting the replacement fuel tank she had supplied.
After 12 years in the army how could I forget the good old Bedford…We have had them ,we had a LF towed to our place ,fair enough we are DAF dealer ,but it was towed to us from a Swedish dealer who couldn’t fix it …Of course Hoity toity didn’t want to pay our hourly rate as the Swedish dealer charged less ,they couldn’t fix it but they where cheaper lol
cav551 I am sure you are mistaken in your reminiscing, about the hoity toity horse box owner, bedfords are still the mainstay of reliable horse boxes, old yes, crusty around the edges yes, but reliable beyond compare, they are still to be seen waiting quietly in all manor of parking spots, fields, barns, most irish vehicle dealers, and of course the backbone of the far east, the only reason they fail is constant driver abuse, the trucks themselves have built in survival techniques such as oil, loss this is to ensure that the driver checks it, (many an engine that never uses oil, is lost because they never checked it) not so bedfords the reminder is on the ground for all to see, poor braking you say, well this installs the drivers survival instinct with the right attitude of when to start braking, and even at times when they think im not going to stop they invariably push harder and the problem is solved, as well as applying the fact that for better heart circulation one should be scared once a day, ask any mechanic (not a computer toting young un) and they will remind you that the Bedford was absolutely fine until it was given to a driver,
To overcome this problem the idle rpm was increased to its max. However now the problem again is reoccurring. Long journeys and it will cut out at a stand after hour and half of driving regardless of accelleration. When going up hills it will lose power and struggle.
Fuel lines all checked and clean, fuel & oil filters renewed, fuel sender all clean, no air in fuel lines, fuel lift pump 18 months old. Exhaust emissions normal, engine oil normal.
We are really at a loose end, mechanic now suggesting the engine is dropped out completely to test everything. Any other suggestions before we go down this route? Does this engine has any type of fuel shut off solenoid or fuel pressure regulator?
Mechanic seems to think its an injector, however it does not misfire or show any symptoms of that, it showing symptoms of low fuel pressure indicating to me of the fuel pump?
At this age presumably this has a CAV DPA or a Bosch VE injector pump.The wiring to the fuel shut off solenoid and the solenoid itself regularly causes this sort of trouble. The solenoids overheat and start to melt the internal insulation, blocking up the passage. If you remove it you can see whether this has happened, there will be what looks like melted black plastic gunge inside. While it is out if metal filings are present in the hole it came out of, then that is an indication that the cam ring and rollers have started to break up in the fuel pump.
If everything, particularly the fuel tank has been removed, checked and eliminated then there are other less common possibilities. Overheated injector needle seizing allowing compression gas to cause an air lock, a restricted return line to the tank building up excessive internal pressure (more common with a CAV system) which then dissipates while the engine is off, the FIP transfer pump worn so unable to maintain internal pressure And of course the possibility that this is not fuel or electrical at all but an engine which has overheated in the past seizing when hot, then cooling down and restarting.
has it ever had a cutoff switch wired into the pump harness?
if it has had one as an anti theft device by some previous handy horace owner,then they will have probably used a scotchlock which will have frayed the wires enough for them to start arcing and shorting ever so slightly causing the pump to choke itself.
i had similar to this on an old turbo diesel transit and after getting quoted £3500 by the dealers for a new pump that the computer diagnosed,it ended up getting a shoogle test one wire at a time and the fault showed up.
Recently it started cutting out when up to running temperature, had the fuel lines pressure checked all ok, the sedimenter all cleaned out and the fuel filters changed. Still kept doing it, so have had the engine idling speed increased which has stopped some of the issues with it cutting out while stopping in traffic whilst it was under load such as lights on/blowers on.