Hi
we have a 2001 Lf45 2001 horse box which i need some help as it is becoming dangerous to use. It has always had a starting issue, the engine fires but the throttle does not make the engine rev, its as if it is not connected. Sometimes it “chugs” and stalls other times it runs but will not rev. If i take the key out and retry this may happen 6 times and then all of a sudden the throttle works and starting is not an issue that day. I have changed the filters, bleed the fuel system and removed the exhaust valve no difference. i had the codes read when we first purchased it and there was a code to do with number 3 injector having low fuel pressure but the engine runs fine. I could live with this issue but now after an hour or so driving if i pull up to a junction the engine STOP light comes on and the engine will not rev. If i remove the key it restarts fine and may not repeat for the remainder of the journey other days it may do this 10 times. It becomes a lottery as it dies as you go to pull away so i end up in the middle of a junction switching off the engine !! Over xmas i noticed whilst driving along the M4 the engine was hunting as i was driving along. The engine tone would change to a heavy diesel sound for a while the go quiet which it also does when it ticks over and when i pulled off at the top of the slip road both red and yellow warning lights appeared and the engine would only tick over. A quick switch off and on the it started up but this time it would not tick over but drove ok. The following day it was if nothing happened. I have changed the oil and filter in case was low oil pressure was stopping it from starting.
Can anyone out there suggest what to try next, i will see if i can get the codes read again as something may have been stored.
Iirc ■■■■■■■ 4 and 6 pots of this vintage have an issue with the oil cooler gasket blowing losing oil pressure and engine will not rev until it sees oil pressure.
Oil cooler is mounted in the block behind the oil filter head assy.
So scrounge an oil pressure gauge and get checking
I would get shot of it and sell it the auctions or stick some new batteries on , to see if that cures it.
It sounds like an accident waiting to happen.
Without sounding like a drama queen, if a dumb car driver runs at the back of you, the police would find out why it was trouble.
If it was a fatal .
Google Philip Potter Bath tipper crash.
The engine is the later common rail engine similar to the iveco. Did this engine suffer from the gasket problem ?
To fit a pressure gauge the alternator has to come off 
.
Just a thought then, when the engine is hot the oil is thinner pulling away may cause a oil surge and the pressure drop hence the stop light coming on ?
dj1995:
The engine is the later common rail engine similar to the iveco. Did this engine suffer from the gasket problem ?
To fit a pressure gauge the alternator has to come off
Just a thought then, when the engine is hot the oil is thinner pulling away may cause a oil surge and the pressure drop hence the stop light coming on ?
Yep its the common rail ISB engines I was talking about, the previous engine the 4/6BT was a real tough old lump that liked to leak oil a lot!
When was the oil last changed?
I bet knowing ■■■■■■■ theres more than one oil take off point for accessories etc.
Lets start from the beginning …The reason the throttle is inop initially is due to the ECU waiting for the sensor to report back saying all is ok ,
You say you had a fault code for low fuel pressure ,so where has the low oil pressure issue came from ■■?
I suggest you get the codes read before diving in and doing random tests that may well end up being a waste of time ,as all you will get is guesses ,as there will be many items that can cause your issue …Your vehicle is a euro 3 ,it will have a metal fuel tank notorious for flaking internally ,the pick up is at the bottom and there is no filter ,it clogs up ,the filter housing elbows get clogged ,the chassis where the pipe from the tank to the pump meet clog up ,the fuel cap used to cause issues ,the injectors where notorious ,have you done a leak off test ,so along with the oil pressure ,and your head gasket …and don’t forget to check all electrical connections from the battery to the starter are good along with the earth …there is enough there to keep you busy ,but without a code no one can truly say what your issue is
double post
hi
thanks for the help, i have the codes being read again at the weekend. Oil pressure sounds like something which needs further investigation. Does anyone know if the ecu sees the oil pressure or is a yes no signal. Where im going with this can i fool the ecu that there is always oil pressure to see if the starting problems go away.
dj1995:
hi
thanks for the help, i have the codes being read again at the weekend. Oil pressure sounds like something which needs further investigation. Does anyone know if the ecu sees the oil pressure or is a yes no signal. Where im going with this can i fool the ecu that there is always oil pressure to see if the starting problems go away.
it only says ok …no point in fooling the ecu as if you have no oil or low pressure ,you will wreck the engine …change the gaskets a previous poster mentined
Check for a rotten fuel tank.
Daf “make” their tanks out of recycled recycled crap.
Got a cheap oil cooler if you want it?
Brand new all the way from China.(genuine ■■■■■■■■■■■
Might even be able to get you a new HP pump made in the same place (also genuine ■■■■■■■■
Bking:
Got a cheap oil cooler if you want it?
Brand new all the way from China.(genuine ■■■■■■■■■■■
Might even be able to get you a new HP pump made in the same place (also genuine ■■■■■■■■
correct on both your posts ,though plastic tanks are the order now
ok - read the engine codes, none stored in the past 18 months.
Started the engine and it would not rev. Looking at the diagnostics the oil pressure was good, but the fuel pressure was only 100bar and the commanded was 300. Switched it off restarted and it started up fine with the correct fuel pressure. I believe if there was a fuel supply problem from the tank other faults would show so guessing it is the fuel pressure valve on the fuel pump. I had a poked about and wiggled the ecu which is quite loose i now have canbus problem with the speedo, tacho and abs reporting faults. Going to replace the bobbins and clean all the connections.
dj1995:
ok - read the engine codes, none stored in the past 18 months.
Started the engine and it would not rev. Looking at the diagnostics the oil pressure was good, but the fuel pressure was only 100bar and the commanded was 300. Switched it off restarted and it started up fine with the correct fuel pressure. I believe if there was a fuel supply problem from the tank other faults would show so guessing it is the fuel pressure valve on the fuel pump. I had a poked about and wiggled the ecu which is quite loose i now have canbus problem with the speedo, tacho and abs reporting faults. Going to replace the bobbins and clean all the connections.
Get the ECU bobbins sorted ASAP as when loose the vibration has been known to cause the ECU to fail…The lack of the engine reving is because the fuel pressure is what the ECU is commanding …So you have a fuel issue …I suggest you take the elbow of the fuel prefilter on the tank and check if there is any crap in it …in fact just remove it and take out the hand primer and the other plugs and see how much crap is in it ,easier ,simpler with no cost except your time …Best to start at the beginning without jumping in and replacing parts
Also remove the stack pipe and sender unit to see if its clogged.
I used to chop an inch off the end of the stack pipe so it doesnt pick up the crap from the tank bottom.
(worked for a right tight arse,wouldnt buy new ones)
Also check the aglomerator rubber seals as they perish after a while.
Bking:
Also remove the stack pipe and sender unit to see if its clogged.
I used to chop an inch off the end of the stack pipe so it doesnt pick up the crap from the tank bottom.
(worked for a right tight arse,wouldnt buy new ones)
Also check the aglomerator rubber seals as they perish after a while.
If you remember he doesn’t have the normal pick up pipe your thinking off,the pipe comes out the the side of the tank where the pre filter is at the very bottom ,and it also clogs up with the crap
norb:
Bking:
Also remove the stack pipe and sender unit to see if its clogged.
I used to chop an inch off the end of the stack pipe so it doesnt pick up the crap from the tank bottom.
(worked for a right tight arse,wouldnt buy new ones)
Also check the aglomerator rubber seals as they perish after a while.If you remember he doesn’t have the normal pick up pipe your thinking off,the pipe comes out the the side of the tank where the pre filter is at the very bottom ,and it also clogs up with the crap
A bit off topic maybe, but do you get instances of algae in the fuel tanks anymore?
Had a case when algae formed in a Volvo diesel tank, foot down and sometimes the green film would wrap around the pick up pipe, foot off and it`d float away. One of those horrible intermittent type problems. But once the tank was inspected inside it became obvious.
Franglais:
norb:
Bking:
Also remove the stack pipe and sender unit to see if its clogged.
I used to chop an inch off the end of the stack pipe so it doesnt pick up the crap from the tank bottom.
(worked for a right tight arse,wouldnt buy new ones)
Also check the aglomerator rubber seals as they perish after a while.If you remember he doesn’t have the normal pick up pipe your thinking off,the pipe comes out the the side of the tank where the pre filter is at the very bottom ,and it also clogs up with the crap
A bit off topic maybe, but do you get instances of algae in the fuel tanks anymore?
Had a case when algae formed in a Volvo diesel tank, foot down and sometimes the green film would wrap around the pick up pipe, foot off and it`d float away. One of those horrible intermittent type problems. But once the tank was inspected inside it became obvious.
Not quiet algae ,but the additives can cause the filters to block up in cold winter mornings,and cause low fuel pressure ,Though with horse boxes they sit tht long between trips the fuel may end up with all sorts of problems ,water being one …The inside of the tanks on the metal tanks flake off
norb:
Franglais:
norb:
Bking:
Also remove the stack pipe and sender unit to see if its clogged.
I used to chop an inch off the end of the stack pipe so it doesnt pick up the crap from the tank bottom.
(worked for a right tight arse,wouldnt buy new ones)
Also check the aglomerator rubber seals as they perish after a while.If you remember he doesn’t have the normal pick up pipe your thinking off,the pipe comes out the the side of the tank where the pre filter is at the very bottom ,and it also clogs up with the crap
A bit off topic maybe, but do you get instances of algae in the fuel tanks anymore?
Had a case when algae formed in a Volvo diesel tank, foot down and sometimes the green film would wrap around the pick up pipe, foot off and it`d float away. One of those horrible intermittent type problems. But once the tank was inspected inside it became obvious.Not quiet algae ,but the additives can cause the filters to block up in cold winter mornings,and cause low fuel pressure ,Though with horse boxes they sit tht long between trips the fuel may end up with all sorts of problems ,water being one …The inside of the tanks on the metal tanks flake off
So,as good practice, in the future, it`d pay the OP to keep the fuel tank topped up with diesel? Less chance of condensation inside the tank?
Yes and take it for a run occasionally…