hi guys
my second drop on monday evening will be at this ind est,
i know i come off the m4 at jct 15 wats the best way next.
i believe its where the barclay card headquaters are based.
also while i am on here can i ask a question about coupling up.
when i am given the keys to the unit i have to go and find the correct trailer, and couple up on me own, dont get me wrong its not as if i dont know what to do but can someone just go through the procedure for me so i can be double sure i know wat i am doing.will the suzies and air lines be obvious where they have to go, do they all have male /female connectors ect.
i noticed on the trailers the brake is on the headboard by the connectors
how will i know if the brake is on or not? will it release itself when i connect the red line?
this daf unit has a suspension on the 5th wheel i know when i go to wind up the legs that i should lift the 5th wheel so it will take the weight off the legs hence making it easier to wind up, how far should i put the suspension up?
is there any guidance at all or is it just by sight?
i know what you all must be thinking “jesus christ is this guy for real”.
but i only passed test 1 month today and it will all be new to me and obviously i will be very nervous,it wont help as both drops have to be in place at certain times for the follow on journey. thanks for the advice you send me.
i can promise you all a good first diary read.
all the best vigfan… 
Hi vig
You want jct15 of the M1 and head for Northampton (obvious I know), after the second proper exit (not the petrol station or golf club/hotel) you’ll see signs for Brackmills. There is a slip road on from the second jct which becomes the exit slip for brackmills. At the roundabout go right. If you can tell me where you’re delivering I can give you instructions for on the estate.
cheers
Jules
Whilst I’m not a class 1, I’ve done some shunting in the yard.
All the different trailers we have have an identification plate next to the trailer brake controls. 2 buttons, trailer brake usually red, pulled out to operate and pushed in to disconnect. The shunt button will override the trailer brake so should be in, trailer brake should be pulled out and will not release brakes until pushed in even after connecting suzies. Some have symbols on plate, some have words. >(O)< = brake on <( O )> = brake off P (or park) inside circle for park brake and S (or truck icon) for shunt. When I shunt, I drop the suspension and move the 5th wheel just under the front of the trailer (can’t be doing with getting covered in grease 
) then jack up the suspension and back it in till it connects, then a couple of tugs to check the connection and out of gear and brake on, then go and fit the clip, connect, wind up legs (which are now clear of ground) and push in the trailer brake. Ready to go.
Obviously I would expect one of the class ones to come on here and give you a better description but there you go 
cheers
Jules
Right. Simple rules.
The trailer brake is RED. The ‘Shunt’ valve is black.
Pull the RED valve out. The brake is on. (Shunt valves are not so easily defineable, but are often pushed in to operate them. If it ‘appear’ in, pull it out. Connection of the Red Line will invariably return the Shunt valve to its normal operating position.)
The purpose of ‘raising’ the suspension is to (1) prevent under-running the Pin and and putting the headboard into the back of the cab and
(2) Relieving the strain on the legs. Few of us can ever guarantee being totally square on to a trailer when coupling. I once used this tehnique when I was picking up a trailer that was extremely close to a vehicle on a bay that was being unloaded. Following a few firm ‘thuds’, I was able to catch the trailer in the edge of the ‘V’ of the jaws and move it acoss about 4 inches, enabling me to wind up the legs. If the suspension had not been raised, then all those stresses would have been taken by the legs.
Raise the suspension as much as you like. But remember that the higher the suspension is raised, the higher you have to climb to connect the lines, and the further you fall if you trip.
None of the lines are interchangeable. The 24N will go into the 24S but the 24S will NOT go into into the 24N. (I may have the numbers wrong and will stand to be corrected on that point.). Just make sure that when you connect any of them, particualrly, the ISO lead, that you remove the floating end from the ‘dummy’ socket, and not the ‘Active’ socket.
Backing in under trl if close coupling
1.Ensure trl brake is on
2.reverse under trl ensuring 5th wheel is under trl to take weight
3.connect suzzie’s,working furthest to nearest,( all male/female connections)
4.into cab select reverse and slot 5th wheel into pin.
5.select 3rd gear giving a couple of tug’s to ensure unit/trl connection.
6.slot 5th wheel safety in through hole
7.wind trl legs up ( ensure you tuck handle into it’s holder afterwards.
8.release trl brake
9.pull off dock,turn all lights on,do your checks,from offside to nearside closing rear doors and fit number plate as you do your checks.
if not close coupling
Back unit under trl give it a couple of tugs to check unit/trl connection,place 5th wheel clip in hole.And do the exact same as close coupling.
Dropping trl is just the same stuff but in reverse order.
i noticed on the trailers the brake is on the headboard by the connectors
If on headboard some will release automatically some won’t.If it don’t pull leaver and you will hear it release ( some work different,you’ll suss it out.)But you will find that most trl brakes are on the near side where the trl legs are .( red in colour) Just push it in and you’ll hear it release.
how far should i put the suspension up?
Till leg’s are clear of ground
how will i know if the brake is on or not?
If button is out then trl brake is on,if button is fully in trl brake is off.
From the M4, Junc 15, up the A419 signed Cirencester, off at the A420 signed Oxford, right up to the A34, and left onto it head up to the M40 and left to go north off on the M40, at next Junction A43 Northampton, after several miles, go under M1 along to next roundabout turn right, follow up there over two or three roundabouts past the fire station, next roundabout with traffic lights, straight over down onto A45, stay in Left hand lane takes you to Bracmills. 
Interesting reading especially the advice on coupling.
I have a few questions regarding raising the suspension -
-
Is the suspension raised from that black box with the
wire near the drivers seat
-
When do you raise the suspension -
a) Before backing the truck under the trailer
b) After connecting up but before rising legs
-
Is there a setting or do you press a button until the
suspension is raised to the right height and then release
the button
convoy:
Interesting reading especially the advice on coupling.
I have a few questions regarding raising the suspension -
- Is the suspension raised from that black box with the
wire near the drivers seat
Usually, Yes, but some older units may still have the switch on the dash (Older Scania’s Normally)
- When do you raise the suspension -
a) Before backing the truck under the trailer
b) After connecting up but before rising legs
Start to back under, if you dont feel the trailer weight on the unit then raise the suspension, once you feel the weight on the unit raise the suspension and back under until the 5th wheel connects.
- Is there a setting or do you press a button until the
suspension is raised to the right height and then release
the button
There is, on the DAF’s there is M1 and M2 buttons, if it was your own wagon you would normally set these as the highest and lowest memory buttons. There is also a green button and a red “Stop” button, and IIRC there is a reset type button that returns the ride height to normal. But there are also the arrow buttons for raise and lower, but you have to keep pressing them to get it to the lowest or highest position. It sounds more complicated then it is ( or it could just be the way I am describing it!!)
Just a minor point . you press the buton at the top to turn the remote unit on , then you press the button with the arrow pointing up to lift the suspension. But you don’t press the button with the down arrow to reset it at it’s proper level. There is another button which automaticaly resets the suspension at the proper ride height, but I can’t remember what the symbol is. I think its a lorry with arrows pointing up and down.
Richard
How do you set the M1/M2 memory buttons ?
No manwell, sorry…
kitkat:
…Back unit under trl give it a couple of tugs to check unit/trl connection,place 5th wheel clip in hole…
Just to be doubly sure, you can always walk under the trailer , between the unit and the legs, and check that the bar is across the jaws and holding the pin in place.
Even after 20 odd years of artic drivng I always do this, before I connect any air lines. Use a torch, day or night. Just for the extra peace of mind
steve_24v:
How do you set the M1/M2 memory buttons ?
No idea. As I’m seldom ever to drive the same vehicle two days running, it’s not something I contemplate. However, strange as it may seem, on Agency work, I’ve worked for different local companies on consecutive days and have found myself driving the same Hire vehicle. Weird. 
remember:
coupling:
Go under trailer
engage 5th wheel dogclip
plug electrics in
wind legs up
disengage trailer brake.
uncoupling:
brakes (ensure trailer brake on)
legs
electrics
pin.
If when you are dropping a trailer, and the arm for the pin appears stuck, don’t panic. Just make sure the trailer brake is on, and reverse very gently and you’ll feel it move. Re-apply hbd brake and the pin should release.
Coupling up.
As a newbie (and I still often do this, in fact it is company policy at our place apparantly), reverse under the lip of the trailer, apply handbrake. Get out the cab, look under the trailer at the front. This is to make sure that the 5th wheel is flush with the trailer. There must never be daylight between them. If you fail to do this, there is the possibility that the 5th wheel may be lower than the pin. What happens then is that you ‘shoot the pin’. Then the trailer smacks into the back of the cab. whoops.
Also when you are looking, you should see that the pin (metal thing hanging from the trailer, no I’m not taking the ■■■■!) is between the skids on the back of the trailer. This shows then you are in line to successfully couple up.
As said before, inflate suspension before windin up the legs. This means the difference between a struggle and potentially damaging muscles and sweating like a p-i-g, or a nice easy wind.
Don’t forget a thorough vehicle and trailer check. Especially as an agency driver the vehicles are alien to you. If there is something not right then shout up. Make sure the washers work - greenfly/bird ■■■■ etc has to be washed off. Don’t be embarressed to ask. They’ll think more of a driver who asks and gets it right, than a driver who ends up making themselves look a nob because they didn’t dare ask.
Good luck m8 
Krankee:
steve_24v:
How do you set the M1/M2 memory buttons ?
No idea. As I’m seldom ever to drive the same vehicle two days running, it’s not something I contemplate. However, strange as it may seem, on Agency work, I’ve worked for different local companies on consecutive days and have found myself driving the same Hire vehicle. Weird.
Normally you set the suspension to wherever it is you want it. Then holding down the stop button press whichever memory button it is you want to set.
To switch them on, press the middle button at the top end of the box. The end that the wire comes out of. A green light will come on above that button. Some of them have another button to the right which switches on front suspension adjustment. You can tell the difference by the pictures. Rear suspension adjustment, picture of a truck with arrows pointing up n down to the rear of the truck. Front suspension, picture of a truck with up n down arrows in front of the truck 
.
Then there are a row of three buttons, M1 M2 and reset (to normal ride height). The M1 and M2 are pre-set memory buttons. The reset button is green and has a picture of a truck with arrows above and below it pointing towards the truck.
Bottom row of three buttons are, up down and the red Stop button.
Don’t forget, there are usualy two gears for winding the legs up n down. High which’ll have them tucked away in next to no time. But If you have a low 5th wheel and the trailer has been dropped by a unit with a high fifth wheel, your unit could be hanging off the pin. Engage low gear, by pulling the spindle out (usualy) and feeling for the gear teeth to line up and drop in.Then start winding, low gear is VERY low, its designed to be able to lift a fully loaded trailer, so check against a mark that the legs are going up, not down. Sometimes the legs can be badly bent, low gear will shift them through the tight bit.
Thanks for that Simon…
My unit takes an age to lower the suspension, where as with the M buttons it responds straight away… I’ll now set high and low on the memory buttons.
