A Middle East Trucking Story.
By John McVey.
Trip Two
I spent the next five months working in the UK, but I had this itch and no matter how I tried, I couldn’t scratch it.
It was early June, Kathy was two months pregnant and I’m off to Kuwait with a dodgy open TIR load, dodgy own account permits and working for an even dodgier geezer I had met in Istanbul on the previous trip. The long suffering Kathy was as ever, loyal, selfless and supportive, she is to write her own account of the following eight weeks that I am to be away from home, mine follows.
I am driving a Maguirus Deutz (Maggie) tractor unit with a stripped down tilt trailer, loaded with eighteen portable toilets that I loaded at Portakabin, York.
The portable toilets were about the size of an old red telephone box and eighteen just fit nicely, two abreast in the stripped down tilt trailer, the hinged sides of the trailer could be lifted into place and secured, but the superstructure of the trailer could not be re-built as the portable toilets were to tall, so I would have to travel “open TIR”
I will now try to explain to the reader two terms that will crop up during the pages to come, firstly, “open TIR.” This means the load will not fit in the confines of a vehicle approved by the TIR regulations, these vehicles can be sealed so as not to allow anything to be added or taken from the loading compartment without breaking the customs seal.
Open TIR means that you are likely to be scrutinised much more closely at any border crossing, so it will probably take twice as much time entering and leaving each country you transit en route to your final destination.
The second term I will endeavour to explain is “own account permits to travel.”
I explained the permit thing earlier, but this is different, own account permits were for use by companies carrying their own goods. For instance; you are a furniture manufacturer and you are delivering product using your own transport to a depot owned by you.
I know that transporting eighteen portable toilets, manufactured by Portakabin in York to Kuwait Oil Company, Kuwait was going to be tricky, but I’ll manage.
Dover to Ostend this time, in to West Germany, first problem!
I had a “belly tank” slung under the trailer containing 300 gallons of red diesel which I would start using when I got past Austria, but I would have to “T form” it through West Germany and Austria.
This is a simple operation, just fill in a form pay a fee and the belly tank is sealed on entering the country and the seal checked when leaving, but when the nice man with the wire and lead seal arrived he could not attach it to the filler cap as it had no hole for the wire to pass through.
I’m off to get a hole drilled in the filler cap, but first I have to learn how to ask for it in German.
“Haben sie eine bohrmaschine bitte?”
Necessity is certainly the mother of invention; I had a few breakdowns over the course of both trips, but nothing major. I lost a hinge pin from the A frame of the trailer (this couples the trailer to the lorry) on the first trip, this lost me almost a day. In those days once you got past Western Europe it was easier to get things repaired, people had to be more self sufficient on the road as professional help was very thin on the ground. I remember it was quite common to see a Turkish lorry at the side of the road, the driver changing the clutch, gear box or back axel, while the rest of the family had got camped down, and Mum was busy making dinner.
I climbed up an embankment, armed with my large metal filler cap, and set off to find someone that had eine bohrmaschine.
I soon came upon an industrial estate and found a man in a factory who was happy to use his bohramaschine to modify my cap; he drilled his hole, rubbed it down a little, presented it to me and said “good”? I inspected the engineers work, and with a big smile on my face replied, “Good!”
I’m off like a whippet, motoring across Germany and into Austria, all is going well and I’m thinking, this is going to be a doddle, I’m light loaded, I’ve got good roads at least as far as Turkey and it’s flaming June.
I spoke too soon, studying the map in Austria; I saw I had two low bridges in close succession, under normal circumstances the TIR tilt trailer would fit under these bridges, but my load was a good twelve inches taller, which was the reason why I could not re-build the superstructure of the trailer.
I had no alternative but to try and get under these bridges, so, on the approach to the first I stopped and let as much air out of the tyres as I could and still be able to drive the lorry without damaging the tyres, as my load was relatively light this should not be a problem.
I gingerly approached the first bridge and she went under no problem, the second bridge was higher so would be no problem at all. Wrong! I think a bit of road surfacing had taken place since my road atlas had been printed, and because the tractor carried the front of the trailer higher than the rear, the first couple of pairs of portable bogs were too high for the bridge, so I had to remove the pyramid shaped roofs from them, then I could get on.
I had to travel quite slowly until I could find a garage and re-inflate my tyres. I soon came upon a fuel station, purchased almost a full road tank of diesel, paid for the use of the air gun and when I asked to use the washroom. I was refused!
I made good time across Austria and down through Hungary, in to Yugoslavia and a stopover at The National Hotel, Belgrade.
I had probably been on the go for about five days now so I was ready for a short break.
I had worked out that, without delays, I could cover five hundred miles a day and I would have to if I was going to make it pay, but beyond Austria there would be no motorways and the main trunk roads, once you get in to Turkey, wind their way through small villages, over mountains, where sometimes the road was barely a track and in parts of south east Turkey and Jordan, no road at all.
Fresh from an overnight stop at The National, I was making very good progress through Yugoslavia and then Bulgaria, and before you can say “baksheesh colleague” I’m back at Kapicule.
So far the open TIR thing had not been much of a problem, but the Turkish customs people were not too keen on it, but eventually I managed to convince them that there was nothing hidden round the bend in my portable bogs.
I enter Turkey and head for the Mocamp at Istanbul.
I remember on the first trip, between Kapicule and Istanbul, there was the wreck of a BRS (British Road Services) M/E spec Leyland Marathon; it was upside down in a ditch at the side of the road, - it was still there!
It don’t arf make yer fink!
I stopped off briefly at the Mocamp in Istanbul, (another popular stopping off point for western lorry drivers) just to get cleaned up and eat something that hadn’t come out of a tin, but I’m not hanging around, so far, apart from a few minor delays I’d made extremely good time and was not about to spoil it by getting camped down, drinking Turkish beer with a few western drivers. I didn’t really drink much in those days anyway.
Turkey is a beautiful country; it has everything really, from Ancient Cities to rural villages, rugged mountains with barely passable roads to flat landscapes where you can see forever. Istanbul and Ankara are real cosmopolitan Cities, I don’t know what it’s like now but in those days South East Turkey seemed almost third world compared to other parts, but nevertheless the whole region gave you a feeling of historical mystique.
I have some wonderful memories of my travels, not just the M/E but also Europe, in particular the old eastern block and of course, wonderful Italy, my favourite place in the whole world apart from England.
I’m giving it big licks now, motoring down the southern Mediterranean, heading for Syria.
Up to now I’ve been on fairly familiar territory but now I’m at the border between Turkey and Syria, a place called Bab Al Hawa. I was delayed half a day here, but was kept entertained by the kids selling anything and everything, they would wave their goods at anyone that looked remotely English and shout “aurence look” “aurence look” I did buy a traditional Arab headdress and in fact still have it.
In those days, travelling through Eastern Block countries, Turkey and M/E countries in general, it was not unusual to be confronted by armed Police, Soldiers or other officials.
I’m not suggesting they were brandishing their weapons or anything like that, but I have had more than a few stressful encounters, in particular I remember one time I was somewhere in Turkey when I was stopped at a random checkpoint and this soldier carrying an automatic weapon got in the cab and started poking around to see if I had anything he fancied for himself. I had very little with me that was worth fighting for, apart from money and my passport, both of which were always about my person, and to be fair all these people wanted was a little baksheesh, they wouldn’t dream of stealing anything, it’s just the culture to invite a gift maybe, cigarettes would usually suffice, I didn’t smoke but it was wise always to carry a few multi packs. This guy though took a shine to my Kodak Instamatic, and I was not for parting with it as it would be the only record of my adventure. I remember I had to be very firm, this soldier had my camera grasped firmly in his spare hand, the other was cradling a very tasty looking self loading rifle. I reached out to take back my possession and at the same time glanced down at the weapon, his eyes followed mine and he realized what was in my mind, he could not have been more apologetic, he didn’t speak English, he just kept saying no, no, no, and patting me on the shoulder having handed back my camera. The poor man was so embarrassed, it obviously had not occurred to him that he was carrying a gun and I might feel threatened.
I must make it clear at this point that whilst on my travels, the vast majority of people I encountered, be they military or other, were friendly and helpful.
There were a couple of occasions when I became a little nervous, once just outside Damascus, I was detained and my passport taken off me, I was kept in a large tent for four hours or so and given no explanation, in fact hardly a word was spoken, this was very disconcerting. Another time I was at an oasis on the tap line in Saudi and was being pestered for cigarettes by a gang of local youths, I had no cigarettes left but they would not take no for an answer and when I became, shall we say, a little firmer in my manner, the big boy among them (he looked about fourteen or fifteen) pulled out a knife and started toward me, well I didn’t know what to do, so I backed up towards the lorry as he shouted some Arabic abuse at me, and then they all ran off in to the night.
Damascus - what a fantastic place! I don’t know how I managed to negotiate that city, at the time there was not one direction sign in English or for that matter Arabic as far as I could see, and the traffic which, typical of any town or city this side of and including Istanbul, ranged from horse and cart to tank transporters, oh yes there’s going to be plenty of military presence from now on.
The journey down through Syria was fairly uneventful, though this would not be the case on the flip side.
I just have a short hop through Jordan, where I get a few second hand tyres fitted by two very nice locals whose photograph is framed and currently on the wall in the downstairs bathroom of my house, then a thousand miles of tap line.
I’m going to digress here, I am compelled to talk about a film made a couple of years later, it was a BBC documentary called “Destination Doha” and it was about M/E overland transport.
I am in no way going to criticize the programme, it was very entertaining and in fact I have it on DVD (if you are reading this in the year 2020 DVD is a very old media format) the programme follows three ASTRAN (Asia Transport Services) vehicles on their journey, it was quite accurate apart from a couple of things that are hilarious.
There are these four drivers, (one was also a mechanic and was to recover a 140 Scania road train that had been abandoned) all good down to earth lads, three were very experienced M/E men and one was on his first trip.
Let me remind you that the object of the exercise is to get there and back as quickly as possible.
These guys actually went skiing in Austria, OK they were week - ended (In some European countries, Lorries are not allowed to travel after noon on Saturday until 10pm Sunday) but still very unrealistic.
Then there was the bit where they were astounded because they could not cash Barclays travellers cheques in Jordan, now I don’t mean to be picky, but come on, Astran had been pioneers in M/E transport, how could they not know that Barclays Bank, with it’s connections to those of the Star of David persuasion was not popular in the Arab States.
But by far the funniest of all was when they were about to take the barrel road, which was a short cut across Jordan, about one hundred miles of hard desert, called the barrel road as 45 gallon drums had been placed at irregular intervals to keep you on course.
Just picture it, there they are, standing by the side of the road peering in to the desert, when the one described as the “thinking mans lorry driver” provides the best “Crocodile Dundee” moment of all time! He looks up at the Sun, then down at his watch, and with his arm outstretched, he points and says “it’s that tangent” well I nearly broke a rib laughing - just follow the barrels!
Actually to be fair many of the barrels had become buried, but it was hard desert and you could easily follow the tyre tracks, plus there were plenty of other Lorries about, in fact you were really supposed to travel in convoy, but I couldn’t be bothered with all that.
The tap line is a thousand miles of pipe carrying oil through Saudi Arabia, and the road runs along side it.
I had met up with a couple of likely lads from London soon after entering Saudi and they both had air conditioning (A/C) in there lorry cabs, so were going to rest during the day and travel at night when it was cooler and there would be less chance of tyre blow outs.
I had no A/C so being stationary during the heat of the day was not an option for me, so I would have to take my chances.
In those days the road was good tarmac one minute, the next you would be negotiating a layered tarmac ramp down on to the desert for a few miles and then back on the tarmac, all good fun.
I would have to travel no faster than 30 mph to minimise the risk of tyre blow outs and just when I thought I was doing well, BANG!
I pulled off the road in to the desert and attempted to change the wheel, but I don’t think I lasted ten minutes before I had to get out of the Sun.
There were only two oases, strategically positioned along the one thousand mile road, and I reckoned I was about half way between the first and the second; I had loaded up with water so I should be alright for that, but I would have to wait until the Sun went down before once again attempting to change the wheel.
OK let’s try again. I have jacked up the axle having already loosened the wheel nuts, and am levering off the wheel, it is still very hot and I’m struggling when a Mack with GB plates pulls up and the driver alights from his air conditioned cab, walks towards me and says in a heavy cockney accent, “it’s ot init”. We change the wheel, share a brew and while I’m packing the tools away he gets on his way and I never see him again.
I motor on down to a place called “The Mirrors” where I hang a left and head for the Saudi/Kuwait border Saudi Arabia is one of a few countries that require you to obtain a visa from the Saudi embassy in London before you can visit or transit the country. I had done so, or so I thought, but unfortunately I had stamped in my passport an entry visa, where I should have a transit visa.
The Saudi side of the border consisted of a couple of wooden huts, inhabited by a few guards and an official immaculately dressed in white Arab robes.
The official was not amused at all about me not having the correct visa, and just kept shaking his head from side to side while I tried to explain that it was not my fault, and that I had asked for a transit visa but as I could not read Arabic, how would I know I had been given an entry visa.
I was delayed a few hours but finally I was allowed to cross.
I’m on the Kuwait side now and have done the paperwork thing and am told I must wait to be convoyed over the dessert to Kuwait City.
I wait all afternoon, it is very hot and I am making regular visits to a stall where an industrious young man of about fifteen years of age is selling water and coke from a large fridge which is hooked up to a generator. He spoke quite good English and we chatted for a while.
I share a brew with a couple of Arab drivers and retire for the night.
The next morning there are still not enough vehicles to form a convoy and I am fed up of waiting. I go to buy some water and get a coke from my young Arab friend and he insists on selling me a bottle of Vimto cordial, declaring it to be a “very good drink”
I’m not for waiting any longer and ask the young man which way to Kuwait City, he shades his eyes with one hand and with the other, points to the desert and proudly say, “This way”
Kuwait City
I’m parked up in a customs clearing compound and I am warned that there is a long delay.
I am not allowed to wait with the lorry, I must report to my agent in Kuwait City every morning to check if my load had been cleared for onward delivery. I have to check in to a hotel, The Bristol is where most western drivers stay; this is going to seriously eat in to my meagre financial resources.
I phone Kathy to let her know the situation and she tells me she is short of money as she had not been sent money as was agreed.
I explained earlier the long drawn out process of booking, making and receiving international phone calls in those days, well I did eventually get money to Kathy but it took a few days.
I was young and desperate for adventure, but I should have made better provision for my family, all was well in the end, but I will not elaborate on this memory as I am not exactly proud of myself, sorry Kathy!
I stay in The Bristol for a few days then I tell the agent I will go and wait with the lorry and he will have to come to me. The agent tells me that the customs officials won’t let me stay in the compound, but I decide to take my chances and make my way there.
I made incredibly good time getting to Kuwait but then had to wait almost two weeks to clear customs, this meant my entry/exit visa for Kuwait had expired; also I have to get a transit visa for Saudi, I would have to go to the British Consulate to obtain two letters of introduction, one to the Saudi Embassy in Kuwait, and one to the Kuwait office responsible for issuing visa’s, I can’t remember properly but it must have been a civil service building of some sort.
I am very lucky to have been accompanied by a very efficient and long suffering guardian angel during my globetrotting; he/she has guided me through what sometimes appeared to be impossible situations, it was as if all I had to do was put one foot in front of the other and all would be well.
I arrive at Kuwait Oil Company, Kuwait City, Kuwait and am escorted to a huge compound out in the desert, where just about as far as you could see in any direction was all manner of equipment; Land Rovers, cranes, diggers, bulldozers, and just about anything you could think of.
I was marshalled to an open area within the compound where the portable toilets were offloaded - well shoved off the side of the trailer actually! I had gone to all that trouble to provide these people with privies, and they would not be using them as they were equipped with western sit on seats, and the locals would only use the footprint type.
Homeward bound, but first I fill up the road tank (100 gallons) and belly tank (300 gallons) with diesel at three pence per gallon, this will get me two thirds the way home and I planned to re-load in Austria which would give me enough money to get home.
I make good time through Saudi, Jordan and in to Syria, you have to keep going in this heat, if you stop even for a short time it becomes unbearable.
I’m travelling north about half way between Damascus and Homs when there is suddenly a drop in power from the engine, and a cloud of white smoke coming from the back of the cab. My heart sinks as I instantly recognise the symptoms of a broken injector pipe.
I am no stranger to broken injector pipes; sometimes the vibration of the engine causes the pipe to snap, which then sprays diesel all over the engine compartment including the exhaust, resulting in the aforementioned white smoke.
I press on to Homs on seven cylinders and find a garage where a very nice man gas welded the offending item, no mean feat as the hole that carries the fuel through the core of the pipe is barely visible to the naked eye, but remember I told you earlier how resourceful people had to be at that time, in that part of the world. I re-fit the pipe and get on my way having only lost a couple of hours.
I’m at the border between Syria and Turkey, still on the Syrian side when I am approached by a man who looked to be in his early twenties, with long but tidy hair and a full beard. He asks me if I will take him and his two friends as far as the Tarsus Mountains, where they are to do a spot of climbing; I decline and watch him as he retires to the table outside a cafe where his friends are waiting.
I am conscious that mine is the only western lorry in the queue waiting to cross the border, and feel a little mean by refusing to give these young people (two boys and a girl) a lift, but I want to get home and don’t need to be encumbered by passengers, besides the job is dangerous enough without inviting strangers along.
I watch the three mountaineers as they discuss their next tactic, and am not at all surprised to see the same young man walking towards my lorry once again.
I listen patiently, after all there was not much else to do and I haven’t had much conversation of late. He explains that they are student teachers from Poland and have been travelling the region as part of their course, he shows me their passports and some documents he claimed legitimised his words, but I remained unimpressed and he once again returned to his disappointed friends.
At last, it is my turn to get the stamp of approval from passport control and as I walk back to my lorry I glance over to where the three lost souls were sitting and gestured to them to join me.
I must say I hit it off straight away with Jersy, who had been the negotiator of the three, he spoke good English, the other two were a couple, they had very little English but were nevertheless friendly.
I was I have to say very glad of the company and that afternoon we were travelling up the Mediterranean coast and it was so nice that we decided to stop and go for a swim. I’ve never been the strongest swimmer, but the Med in that area is so buoyant that it flatters even the most ordinary.
We were having a high old time, we found an old ball and were busy throwing it to each other whilst bobbing around in the warm water, when I noticed a man dressed in some kind of uniform unfamiliar to me (I’d seen a few by now) and he was waving his arms around, one of which had a rifle attached to the end, we swam ashore and approached the man who repeated just one word “SHARK”
We reached Tarsus that evening and I said goodbye to my new friends.
I had exchanged postal details with Jersy and we wrote for a couple of years, but then lost touch, he was a student teacher at the time and is probably retired now.
The roads between Adana, Ankara and Istanbul were, in those days not the best, but traffic was relatively heavy, mostly Turkish “Tonka’s” (these were three axle rigid lorries which would usually be grossly overloaded and travelled painfully slow) at the opposite end of the spectrum were the inter-city coaches which would always be travelling far too fast, and would risk all to overtake. Make no mistake, if one of these buses is overtaking you, or heading straight for you whilst overtaking, give way because he certainly won’t.
I heard that the drivers of these buses, who dressed like airline pilots, were on strict schedules and if they were late did not get paid.
I was crossing the Tarsus Mountain area when one of these buses closed up behind me, he was continually flashing his lights and blowing his horn, but the road was narrow and bendy and there was nowhere for me to pull over and let him overtake, so I went as fast as I could until I found a place to let him go by.
I slowed, pulled over and let him pass, but as soon as he had he jammed on the anchors and fifteen or twenty people got down from the bus and started towards me waving their fists. I had done nothing at all to antagonise these people, in fact quite the reverse, having seen the dangerous overtaking manoeuvres these drivers would attempt, I wanted to be rid of this pursuer as swiftly as possible.
I certainly didn’t like the look of the approaching crowd, but what do I do? if I set off, pass the bus and make my escape he’ll be chasing me all the way to Ankara, on the other hand, I wasn’t about to wait and see what this mob had planned for me, so I put Maggie in gear and slowly moved forward, immediately the pack turned and ran for the bus. I stopped as the re-loaded bus sped off. Luckily for me the thought of being stuck behind my lorry again, must have outweighed the angry mobs ■■■■ for revenge. I decided to stay where I was for a while and make a brew.
I make good time to Ankara and on to Istanbul where I again stop at the Mocamp to freshen up, having eaten a meal whilst sat at a table for the first time in a long time, I was walking back to where my lorry was parked when I saw a scruffy looking individual leaning against the cab. Istanbul was on the “Hippy Trail” and this guy was on his way back to the UK from India to get his teeth fixed.
I quite enjoyed the company of my Polish student wanderers, but they were only with me for a day, this guy was a proper minger, I mean he stunk, and if I said yes to his request for a lift to England, he would be my constant companion for a week or so - not likely!
I pass through the border at Kapicule with very little delay, and on the Bulgarian side met a very nice Danish guy called Gunnar, we travelled together for a while and stopped at a roadside café for something to eat, this was a big mistake as within a couple of hours I started to feel unwell. I was ahead of Gunnar when my condition became so bad that I had to stop.
Gunnar offered to stay with me but I preferred to be alone and try and get some sleep. That night I felt so ill, it was awful, but then the cause of my distress made its escape via both ends and I immediately started to recover.
Gunnar had told me that he intended to spend a couple of days at The National in Belgrade so I decided to drop in on him and was only a couple of hours away when the repaired injector pipe snapped again. I limped the rest of the way to Belgrade, removed the offending part and set off to find another nice man.
Maggie now fully recovered and I’m on my way having spent the evening enjoying a drink and blather with Gunnar.
I’m struggling to remember anything about the rest of the trip home that might interest the reader, everything went according to plan, apart from a dodgy starter motor which let me down a couple of times and I had to get a tow start.
It was lovely to get home, Kathy was considerably larger than when I last saw her and I decided that I was going to be around when David arrived, so I did some UK work for Harry Norton where I had a very bad accident, the legacy of which I still carry with me.