How very true marcustandy, learning to pass a test is not learning to drive, that takes years of experience.
You need to try one of these dinosaurs they have here, I havn’t found one gear box that doesn’t have to have the exact revs to change down yet 
Am I missing something here? Shouldn’t it be a combination of brakes and gears for slowing down, and for smooth down changes even on modern synchro boxes blipping the throttle helps (and I know it’s not standard practice and not everyone can probably do it but a bit of toe ‘n’ heel does the trick).
As for going up a manual box get the revs right and forget the clutch, yet again not standard practice and takes a lot of getting used to. Blipping the throttle allows the engine speed readjust to the road speed through the gearbox, just makes it a bit smoother.
I was allways trained to get the most out of the engine, and I’m not talking fuel economy. The company I’m with at the moment tell us to fill up at motorway services so they’re not bothered about you being in the green band (sorry I know I’ve gone off topic here)
I drive an automatic truck and that revs up a little bit when changing down to match the revs for the gear change most of them do.
When i was taught to drive a truck pre test i was always told to brake first then change gear but never to “blip” the throttle to do this.
CM:
That is the way I see it, surely with a synchro box the slower the friction plate engages the flywheel the better. If the flywheel is running fast because you have just induced revs then surely the friction plate is more likely to have induced slip? I think!
What a load of hogwash. You don’t have a clue about how a transmission works, so please don’t try passing yourself off as somebody who does.
The above comment is borderline as regards the Personal Attack rules. As it has been commented upon further down the thread I’ll leave it unedited, but please think a little more carefully before posting in future. L.
For non-synchronised transmissions, this is an absolute requisite for smooth shifting. It is called “double clutching”, and is done every day on every shift on every non-synchro box on the majority of American heavy trucks. What you are doing is matching the input and output shaft speeds so that the dogs on the shaft don’t grind-nothing more. Your auto-boxes over there do this automatically.
Even with the majoirity of boxes over there being synchronised, you may need to do this if you have a worn synchro on 1 or more gears. Even if your synchros are not worn, matching the input/output speeds more closely will reduce the wear on the synchros. This can be accomplished just with a short hesitation between gears-the faster you switch gears, the more the synchros wear. “Blipping” the throttle is not needed, unless you miss your slot and have to try again.
The poster above who shared his 2 pence worth is a good example of the sort of mechanical misconceptions common amongst drivers. While I doubt 1 in 20 drivers over in the US has a clue about how a transmission works, I would assume that drivers in Britain would tend to bea bit more experienced in such things.
on downshifts the gearbox software blips the throttle electronically to sycronise the speeds of the different components about to engage or mesh for the reasons of reduced wear and tear.
As in the Premium automatic.
Ken.
AlexxInNY:
CM:
That is the way I see it, surely with a synchro box the slower the friction plate engages the flywheel the better. If the flywheel is running fast because you have just induced revs then surely the friction plate is more likely to have induced slip? I think!What a load of hogwash. You don’t have a clue about how a transmission works, so please don’t try passing yourself off as somebody who does.
For non-synchronised transmissions, this is an absolute requisite for smooth shifting. It is called “double clutching”, and is done every day on every shift on every non-synchro box on the majority of American heavy trucks. What you are doing is matching the input and output shaft speeds so that the dogs on the shaft don’t grind-nothing more. Your auto-boxes over there do this automatically.
Even with the majoirity of boxes over there being synchronised, you may need to do this if you have a worn synchro on 1 or more gears. Even if your synchros are not worn, matching the input/output speeds more closely will reduce the wear on the synchros. This can be accomplished just with a short hesitation between gears-the faster you switch gears, the more the synchros wear. “Blipping” the throttle is not needed, unless you miss your slot and have to try again.
The poster above who shared his 2 pence worth is a good example of the sort of mechanical misconceptions common amongst drivers. While I doubt 1 in 20 drivers over in the US has a clue about how a transmission works, I would assume that drivers in Britain would tend to bea bit more experienced in such things.
When I signed up to this site I was welcomed and told that there were no stupid questions and if anyone could be of help then just ask. If you don’t ask you don’t learn. This I have done, I hope, and whilst I appreciate your helpful and vaild comments in paragraphs two and three I am not sure the view expressed in paragraphs one and four is that constructive, do we need to get personal?
CM:
When I signed up to this site I was welcomed and told that there were no stupid questions and if anyone could be of help then just ask. If you don’t ask you don’t learn. This I have done, I hope, and whilst I appreciate your helpful and vaild comments in paragraphs two and three I am not sure the view expressed in paragraphs one and four is that constructive, do we need to get personal?
CM,
What you were told when you originally signed up to this site was/is correct!! There is a saying kicking around along the lines of ‘the only stupid questions are the ones that you don’t ask’. So true!!
Maybe Alexx was having a bad day but don’t let that put you of.
*It was a bit harsh, don’t you think Alexx?? 
Re: slowing down on brakes vs gears…
AIUI, brakes are for slowing you down, engine braking (and therefore selecting a lower gear) is for maintaining that speed once the brakes have got you there.
Re: double-declutching…
Personally, I always double-declutch downward changes. That’s the way I was taught when I did my C - the truck did have a synchro box, but the change was much less “notchy” if you double-declutched, and it sometimes wouldn’t go in at all if you didn’t double-declutch on the larger block changes (e.g. 6th → 3rd or 4th). Also, keeping in the habit makes life easier when I do get given a non-synchro box. Plus, when I get the rev “blip” speed perfect and the gear goes straight in, it puts a big smile on my face
AlexxInNY:
CM:
That is the way I see it, surely with a synchro box the slower the friction plate engages the flywheel the better. If the flywheel is running fast because you have just induced revs then surely the friction plate is more likely to have induced slip? I think!What a load of hogwash. You don’t have a clue about how a transmission works, so please don’t try passing yourself off as somebody who does.
Thats a bit harsh Alex.
CM. you don’t blip the throttle on up changes, just allow the revs to drop 250 - 300 rpm (whatever suits your gear box), before selecting the next gear and dropping your clutch. You can blip the throttle on down changes to match the engine/gearbox revs to the clutch/drive shaft revs if you like, but modern syncro boxes don’t really need it. You need to rev up a bit more than the 250 - 300, and then allow the revs to drop down to those rpm.
From what you have written, you appear to have got some ideas crossed. What you have written, in the quote above, is correct if you blip the throttle on up changes, except that you don’t. 
You lot are so touchy How the hell would you cope in an old time transport company with guys ribbing you etc 
The bloke didn’t ask a question, it was almost a statement and Alex responded, it wasn’t an insult. Alex runs the enginering side of an entire fleet, he was stating a fact. If you get so offended don’t offer information when it’s just your own oppinion
I am sure Alex didn’t mean to upset anyone
Pat Hasler:
old time
Key words, I think.
Presumably you are trying to slow the truck down So why take your foot off the brake to blip the throttle?, you will be taking alot longer to slow down.
Really it doesnt matter afterall it isnt your clutch.
I am currently taking my C+E course. I have been told to do this when slowing down. First brake to get the speed down (revs to about 1000rpm) then lift the clutch up, at the same time increase the revs to match the speed. Then it’s back on the brake and repeat the procedure.
As far as I can tell, this is a way of getting round slowing the vehicle with the gears (which examiners don’t like), although technically that’s what you are doing.
theghostofcain:
First brake to get the speed down (revs to about 1000rpm) then lift the clutch up,
What you have described is a ‘gentle blip’ of then throttle - still unneccessary.
From the above quote you make it sound like you are braking and depressing the clutch at the same time and yet not actually changing a gear!?! If this is the case then this is deemed as ‘coasting’ and the examiner will record it as a driving fault under ‘correct use of the gears’.
I’ve got two of my cat C+E students on test tomorrow and will get chance to chat to the examiner. I’ll canvass his opinions on this matter.
Sorry, I should have explained better.
brake to slow down (revs at about 1000 rpm)
clutch down, change gear
whilst lifting clutch, raise revs to match speed
repeat.
It’s not so much a blip, more like a decent amount of revs for about 4 to 5 seconds
…ahhhh! Different matter altogether. You are actually describing the matching of the engine speed, via the gearbox to the road speed of the vehicle. This is normal and is not ‘blipping’ the throttle that has been discussed on here.
any one who says you dont have to blip the accelerater obviousley hasnt driven a renault with a kerax gearbox what a joy to downshift 
theghostofcain:
Sorry, I should have explained better.brake to slow down (revs at about 1000 rpm)
clutch down, change gear
whilst lifting clutch, raise revs to match speed
repeat.It’s not so much a blip, more like a decent amount of revs for about 4 to 5 seconds
From what you’re saying, it sounds like you’re double-declutching the downward changes.
Basically, you get the vehicle to the correct road speed using the brakes.
Then you:
o stick your foot on the clutch
o put the gearstick in neutral
o take your foot off the clutch and rev the engine (simultaneously)
o put your foot back on clutch
o select the gear you want
o get the engine revving at the correct speed, then bring the clutch back up through the biting point.
Revving the engine in neutral with your foot off the clutch starts the bits of metal between the clutch and the gearbox (i.e. the clutch plate and the gearbox input drive shaft) turning at approximately the correct speed for the gear that you’re going to select. On a non-synchro box, this is absolutely vital, or you won’t get the gear you want. On a synchro box it’s usually not necessary (except with bigger block changes on older vehicles), but it means that the synchros have less to do when you do engage the gear, and therefore it goes in easier, and causes less wear on the synchros. You do put slightly more wear on the clutch, but as it’s not got much to spin up (it’s in neutral), the extra wear is minimal.
Bringing the revs up before coming up through the biting point gets the engine flywheel and clutch plate spinning at approximately the same speed, and therefore means that the clutch has less to do at the biting point, giving you a smoother ride, and reducing clutch wear.
What you shouldn’t do is select a lower gear, then balance the clutch on the biting point as the vehicle slows down - using the clutch for braking. This is effectively the same thing as using the brakes (it’s still a set of friction pads rubbing against a metal disc), but the brakes are designed to do it, whereas the clutch isn’t. Also, it costs a lot more to replace a clutch than replace the brakes (on a car, at least). You should only use the clutch to slow you down if you need more braking than the actual brakes can provide (i.e. the brakes have failed).
I’m sorry, but I didn’t realise that you were the original poster. They way your post read, I thought you were somebody giving advice to the initial question. In the context that I see now, my response was uncalled for.
I do stand by my opinion that you have little understanding about how a transmission works, however.