Poor fuel consumption

I have no idea how it’s worked out, but I can guarantee that Michelin etc with their multi million pound research and development budgets use a far more reliable method than a truck dash display to figure it out lol.

Those dash displays are about as much use as subtitles on a ■■■■■ film, the one on my new truck, using all the latest and greatest technology available is out by a significant amount compared to the app the driver uses, which records fuel used for miles travelled, sometimes it records less fuel used, other times it records more fuel used than what actually happened.

However that raises an important subject, by accurately recording your mpg in an attempt to improve it, you usually see a gain as you try to beat your previous top up.

Whilst being slightly tongue in cheek, when working fuel consumption out the proper way, ie brim to brim over a period of time, if the tyres being worn means the odometer is recording higher miles between fill-ups then that will have some effect, but my O level maths definately isn’t up to working this out :blush:

I know from sat nav speedo reading that a vehicle capable of a genuine 55mph with full tread will be down to near enough 53 mph by the time the drive axle tyres have been recut, i’m not sure what percentage we are talking here (4% seems about there but that could be miles out), and yes i agree worn tyres offer less frictionL drag…as anyone driving a modern 6x2 will know only too well on a wet road :open_mouth: …but it would be interesting if one of our brain boxes here could do the calculation for us, ie what mileage covered difference is there due to the difference in full tread tyres compared with recuts then down to about 4mm and ready for replacement.

Just for the record, my own fuel figures are taken from the pump which gives a readout from the last fill up…i only take notice when itn was definately me who last filled so the fill cut off points will be consistent.

And yes, beating the previous mpg for a given run is a challenge i like too :smiley:

I use this app, I’m quite happy with my numbers considering the work I’ve done with the truck during its lifetime.

Juddian:
Whilst being slightly tongue in cheek, when working fuel consumption out the proper way, ie brim to brim over a period of time, if the tyres being worn means the odometer is recording higher miles between fill-ups then that will have some effect, but my O level maths definately isn’t up to working this out :blush:

I know from sat nav speedo reading that a vehicle capable of a genuine 55mph with full tread will be down to near enough 53 mph by the time the drive axle tyres have been recut, i’m not sure what percentage we are talking here (4% seems about there but that could be miles out), and yes i agree worn tyres offer less frictionL drag…as anyone driving a modern 6x2 will know only too well on a wet road :open_mouth: …but it would be interesting if one of our brain boxes here could do the calculation for us, ie what mileage covered difference is there due to the difference in full tread tyres compared with recuts then down to about 4mm and ready for replacement.

Just for the record, my own fuel figures are taken from the pump which gives a readout from the last fill up…i only take notice when itn was definately me who last filled so the fill cut off points will be consistent.

And yes, beating the previous mpg for a given run is a challenge i like too :smiley:

You also will have to take tyre pressures into account, lower pressures will give a smaller rolling radius recording more miles than a tyre at higher pressure, higher pressure also lowers rolling resistance, I always ran with 125 on the fronts if the pump would put it in, that stopped the corners wearing off, also rears had as much as I could get in them, recommended pressures those days was 100psi or 110psi on 11.00 x 22.5 on my trailer and 12.00 x 22.5 on the unit, another bonus was that I never had a blow out even running with 25 ton containers (32 ton gross them days) and 65/70 mph.
Speed is a big user of fuel, keep around 50mph because over fifty air resistance begins to overtake rolling resistance, I would imagine that it’s very difficult to save fuel via the gearbox with these modern auto boxes, the last one I drove was often in completely the wrong gear because the gearbox can’t read the road ahead like a driver can.

landowner:

Juddian:
Whilst being slightly tongue in cheek, when working fuel consumption out the proper way, ie brim to brim over a period of time, if the tyres being worn means the odometer is recording higher miles between fill-ups then that will have some effect, but my O level maths definately isn’t up to working this out :blush:

I know from sat nav speedo reading that a vehicle capable of a genuine 55mph with full tread will be down to near enough 53 mph by the time the drive axle tyres have been recut, i’m not sure what percentage we are talking here (4% seems about there but that could be miles out), and yes i agree worn tyres offer less frictionL drag…as anyone driving a modern 6x2 will know only too well on a wet road :open_mouth: …but it would be interesting if one of our brain boxes here could do the calculation for us, ie what mileage covered difference is there due to the difference in full tread tyres compared with recuts then down to about 4mm and ready for replacement.

Just for the record, my own fuel figures are taken from the pump which gives a readout from the last fill up…i only take notice when itn was definately me who last filled so the fill cut off points will be consistent.

And yes, beating the previous mpg for a given run is a challenge i like too :smiley:

You also will have to take tyre pressures into account, lower pressures will give a smaller rolling radius recording more miles than a tyre at higher pressure, higher pressure also lowers rolling resistance, I always ran with 125 on the fronts if the pump would put it in, that stopped the corners wearing off, also rears had as much as I could get in them, recommended pressures those days was 100psi or 110psi on 11.00 x 22.5 on my trailer and 12.00 x 22.5 on the unit, another bonus was that I never had a blow out even running with 25 ton containers (32 ton gross them days) and 65/70 mph.
Speed is a big user of fuel, keep around 50mph because over fifty air resistance begins to overtake rolling resistance, I would imagine that it’s very difficult to save fuel via the gearbox with these modern auto boxes, the last one I drove was often in completely the wrong gear because the gearbox can’t read the road ahead like a driver can.

Having sufficient pressures in the tyres is a good idea, I’d agree. Decreases lost energy in sidewall deflection and the tyres should run cooler.
But I don’t think it makes any significant difference to the “rolling radius” or affects the mileometer?

Agreed^^^^^ tread depth would have by far a greater effect on that. Pressure effect would be negligible.

Maybe the tyres dont deflect as much these days I wouldn’t know, I retired some time ago. If the tyres settle down with weight on and look loaded then the rolling radius is smaller and the speedo will read more distance than you are actually covering .
Splitting hairs really, the soft tyres will take more energy to keep rolling, I believe that the driver is in the best position to save fuel but few are bothered.

Take the introduction of aerodynamic aids on trucks, when these were introduced in the late seventies and eighties they allowed the truck to accelerate faster, climb hills better and keep up maximum speed longer because of the reduced wind resistance, they did save some fuel but power should have been reduced so as performance was similar to a truck without the aids only then would the full potential be realised.
I think the biggest fuel saver was the speed limiter and the next should be a power limiter but then the drivers would find that hard to accept as they did with the speed limiter.

landowner:
Maybe the tyres dont deflect as much these days I wouldn’t know, I retired some time ago. If the tyres settle down with weight on and look loaded then the rolling radius is smaller and the speedo will read more distance than you are actually covering .

I would argue with that.
With a large sidewall deflection the distance between the hub centre and the ground will be less, true, but the circumference of the wheel/tyre will remain the same. So the odometer will still be as accurate as before.
Won`t it?

I still agree that a properly inflated tyre is more economical than an underinflated one.

Franglais:

landowner:
I would argue with that.
With a large sidewall deflection the distance between the hub centre and the ground will be less, true, but the circumference of the wheel/tyre will remain the same. So the odometer will still be as accurate as before.
Won`t it?

I still agree that a properly inflated tyre is more economical than an underinflated one.

The way I see it the rolling radius would be smaller because the distance between the hub and the road is smaller at all times regardless of how big the rest of the tyre is when it isn’t touching the road if that makes sense.

I was obsessed with fuel efficiency in the eighties and once checked every tyre on every vehicle / trailer I drove over a week, that would be at least fourteen trailers and maybe seven units doing supermarket work. Not one tyre was up to pressure, some as low as 40psi and this was a well looked after fleet (Safeway) . Wouldn’t happen as much now with the super single trailer tyres but who knows?
I also noticed one huge fleet of Mercedes artics that had the roof spoilers all at different angles, I assumed that the spoiler was left in the position it was after painting because some were at the lower limit, some higher limit and the rest anywhere in between, majority of the trailers were identical and trailer gaps were the same so I could only blame uninformed management.

Another fleet I worked with put 80 psi in all the tyres because the tyre company told them that was the best for minimum tyre wear. They were cheap remoulds and they said that running them at 80 would put heat into the tyre and give grip and less wear, they used to wander all over the motorway with weight on, didn’t like the ruts. Thinking was that they rarely carried max weight but they didn’t think that if it was heavy on one axle then the tyres were not inflated properly regardless of overall weight.

Interesting subject tyres :smiley: :smiley:

landowner:

Franglais:

landowner:
I would argue with that.
With a large sidewall deflection the distance between the hub centre and the ground will be less, true, but the circumference of the wheel/tyre will remain the same. So the odometer will still be as accurate as before.
Won`t it?

I still agree that a properly inflated tyre is more economical than an underinflated one.

The way I see it the rolling radius would be smaller because the distance between the hub and the road is smaller at all times regardless of how big the rest of the tyre is when it isn’t touching the road if that makes sense.

I was obsessed with fuel efficiency in the eighties and once checked every tyre on every vehicle / trailer I drove over a week, that would be at least fourteen trailers and maybe seven units doing supermarket work. Not one tyre was up to pressure, some as low as 40psi and this was a well looked after fleet (Safeway) . Wouldn’t happen as much now with the super single trailer tyres but who knows?
I also noticed one huge fleet of Mercedes artics that had the roof spoilers all at different angles, I assumed that the spoiler was left in the position it was after painting because some were at the lower limit, some higher limit and the rest anywhere in between, majority of the trailers were identical and trailer gaps were the same so I could only blame uninformed management.

Another fleet I worked with put 80 psi in all the tyres because the tyre company told them that was the best for minimum tyre wear. They were cheap remoulds and they said that running them at 80 would put heat into the tyre and give grip and less wear, they used to wander all over the motorway with weight on, didn’t like the ruts. Thinking was that they rarely carried max weight but they didn’t think that if it was heavy on one axle then the tyres were not inflated properly regardless of overall weight.

Interesting subject tyres :smiley: :smiley:

As I see it:
The radius is only useful to calculate the circumference of the tyre.

An odometer counts the number of revolutions the wheel makes, so the circumference of the wheel multiplied by the number of revolutions made gives us the distance. We agree there?
The circumference (the actual tread) wont noticeably vary in spite of sidewall deflection will it? The tread wont noticably stretch with extra pressure will it?
A tyre with lots of distortion will, as you correctly say, have the hub (the centre) nearer the ground. But I argue that it is no longer a circle so using the radius as a measure to calculate the circumference is invalid. Since the circumference is (would we agree?) largely unaltered by pressure the odometer measure is unaffected.
An underinflated tyre will have a smaller apparent radius, agreed, but since it isnt any longer a true circle, it isnt relevant to calculation of circumference.

(I hope Im open to being proved wrong. But think (at the moment) Im correct.)

You’re right that the tread wont stretch with inflation.
My way of looking at it is that the distance between the hub and the road remains the same as the tyre rotates

Would you agree that running on a flat tyre would be the same as running on a smaller wheel ? because say for instance it was running on almost on the rim then that would be similar to removing the tyre altogether so smaller wheel.

Does that make sense?

landowner:
You’re right that the tread wont stretch with inflation.
My way of looking at it is that the distance between the hub and the road remains the same as the tyre rotates

Would you agree that running on a flat tyre would be the same as running on a smaller wheel ? because say for instance it was running on almost on the rim then that would be similar to removing the tyre altogether so smaller wheel.

Does that make sense?

A smaller diameter wheel/tyre would clearly make a difference, I agree.

First, Ill repeat the odometer merely counts the number of turns of a wheel. If you agree the tread (the circumference) of a tyre doesnt noticeably change with inflation pressure, then I say pressure and sidewall deflection won`t affect the number of turns a wheel makes in any given distance.

Measuring the (smaller) radius of a deflecting tyre is invalid as it is NOT a circle anymore. The new tyre shape can be ignored (I think) so long as you agree that the tread length, the circumference is unchanged.

Running on a totally flat tyre?
The wheel would run around at a different speed to the tyre after the seal with the bead is broken.
Dont wheels like that run at a very uneven speed as the wheel repeatedly grips and spins on the tyre? Lets try to visualise a tyre that is very deflated, but not so much that it breaks the seal with the wheel? Doesn`t the tyre and wheel rotate at the same rate? So again it is only the circumference that really matters?

Franglais:

landowner:
You’re right that the tread wont stretch with inflation.
My way of looking at it is that the distance between the hub and the road remains the same as the tyre rotates

Would you agree that running on a flat tyre would be the same as running on a smaller wheel ? because say for instance it was running on almost on the rim then that would be similar to removing the tyre altogether so smaller wheel.

Does that make sense?

A smaller diameter wheel/tyre would clearly make a difference, I agree.

First, Ill repeat the odometer merely counts the number of turns of a wheel. If you agree the tread (the circumference) of a tyre doesnt noticeably change with inflation pressure, then I say pressure and sidewall deflection won`t affect the number of turns a wheel makes in any given distance.

Measuring the (smaller) radius of a deflecting tyre is invalid as it is NOT a circle anymore. The new tyre shape can be ignored (I think) so long as you agree that the tread length, the circumference is unchanged.

Running on a totally flat tyre?
The wheel would run around at a different speed to the tyre after the seal with the bead is broken.
Dont wheels like that run at a very uneven speed as the wheel repeatedly grips and spins on the tyre? Lets try to visualise a tyre that is very deflated, but not so much that it breaks the seal with the wheel? Doesn`t the tyre and wheel rotate at the same rate? So again it is only the circumference that really matters?

Well I’ve been out this afternoon and did an experiment using my garden tractor, I marked the top of each rear wheel with tipex and then deflated the offside tyre so as the tractor was leaning, I then drove the tractor forwards in a straight line for between 50 and 100 yards then checked the tipex marks on the wheels with the nearside mark at the top. I then checked the offside with the soft tyre and the mark had advanced about 5 to 10 minutes, I would say that the wheel with the soft tyre was going slightly faster than the pumped up tyre.
Not very scientific but that’s what happened maybe you could try it and see if the results are repeated, very interesting discussion and we may have to agree to differ :smiley:

landowner:

Franglais:

landowner:
You’re right that the tread wont stretch with inflation.
My way of looking at it is that the distance between the hub and the road remains the same as the tyre rotates

Would you agree that running on a flat tyre would be the same as running on a smaller wheel ? because say for instance it was running on almost on the rim then that would be similar to removing the tyre altogether so smaller wheel.

Does that make sense?

A smaller diameter wheel/tyre would clearly make a difference, I agree.

First, Ill repeat the odometer merely counts the number of turns of a wheel. If you agree the tread (the circumference) of a tyre doesnt noticeably change with inflation pressure, then I say pressure and sidewall deflection won`t affect the number of turns a wheel makes in any given distance.

Measuring the (smaller) radius of a deflecting tyre is invalid as it is NOT a circle anymore. The new tyre shape can be ignored (I think) so long as you agree that the tread length, the circumference is unchanged.

Running on a totally flat tyre?
The wheel would run around at a different speed to the tyre after the seal with the bead is broken.
Dont wheels like that run at a very uneven speed as the wheel repeatedly grips and spins on the tyre? Lets try to visualise a tyre that is very deflated, but not so much that it breaks the seal with the wheel? Doesn`t the tyre and wheel rotate at the same rate? So again it is only the circumference that really matters?

Well I’ve been out this afternoon and did an experiment using my garden tractor, I marked the top of each rear wheel with tipex and then deflated the offside tyre so as the tractor was leaning, I then drove the tractor forwards in a straight line for between 50 and 100 yards then checked the tipex marks on the wheels with the nearside mark at the top. I then checked the offside with the soft tyre and the mark had advanced about 5 to 10 minutes, I would say that the wheel with the soft tyre was going slightly faster than the pumped up tyre.
Not very scientific but that’s what happened maybe you could try it and see if the results are repeated, very interesting discussion and we may have to agree to differ :smiley:

Sounds a good experiment.
I am having trouble visualizing how that could happen, but that could easily be a failure on my part.

The thing about using higher pressures as an aid to better fuel consumption is that it comes at a cost of lower grip due to smaller footprint and can have a marked effect on ride comfort.

Grip is the biggie obviously, speaking particularly about artics there’s a sweet spot on drive axle pressures, if you go higher the handling deteriorates the vehicle becomes skittish and you start to find damp road wheelspin becoming an issue no matter how gentle you are on the throttle.
It would take a better maths student than i to work out, but if you get momentary wheelspin (all vehicles are not the same in how quickly TC/ASR cuts in) then the drive wheel(s) which the odometer is reading could appear to be travelling further than the vehicle has actually gone, leading maybe to what looks like minutely better fuel consumption, obviously we’re talking fractions here but maybe enough to offset any increase in distance travelled due to those higher pressures, if indeed that is a thing at lorry tyre pressures.

Personally i don’t want higher pressures on a drive axle, mine are 90psi cold, even 10psi higher you can feel the deterioration in grip, on corners especially even in a straight line on our crumbling roads you can feel the difference in stability, at the right pressures there’s a reliable sure footedness, go higher and it all starts to feel a little more unsteady, is it really worth a supposed increase in distance covered this is quite apart from the deterioration in ride quality with higher pressures, there’s a sweet spot which gives a decent balance of attributes.

The other issue is tyre wear due to wheelspin, we’ve all found spinning to be an issue particularly when tyres get past half worn, on some damp roads i’ve felt the vehicle step out of line up to as high as 11th gear (that TC/ASR not being equal on all again) when empty, this isn’t driving like a knob it can be just gentle acceleration where the surface is worn out (polished by multiple wheelspins?), let alone pulling away from junctions in the wet, how many here use the axle weight transfer facilities most vehicles are fitted with to aid safe spin free pulling away loaded…it’s busy out there at some junctions whe you get a gap you’ve got to get a move on for everyone’s sake, using weight transfer sensibly can make the world of difference especially if you pull trailers that you can’t load yourself for proper weight distribution.

This tyre pressure lark is an involved subject. like many things in lorry world one size doesn’t fit all.

Juddian:
The thing about using higher pressures as an aid to better fuel consumption is that it comes at a cost of lower grip due to smaller footprint and can have a marked effect on ride comfort.

This tyre pressure lark is an involved subject. like many things in lorry world one size doesn’t fit all.

Excellent point well put.
Shows how out of touch I am with the newer vehicles in transport, also shows that tyre tech must have advanced as well because 90psi in the drive wheel tyres years ago was running soft risking heat build up and blow outs especially if carrying max weights.
Never any wheelspin even with 120psi those days but then I only had 300 odd horsepower and more driver feel for the road with the older vehicles.

Progress has brought it’s own problems it seems

landowner:

Juddian:

Excellent point well put.
Shows how out of touch I am with the newer vehicles in transport, also shows that tyre tech must have advanced as well because 90psi in the drive wheel tyres years ago was running soft risking heat build up and blow outs especially if carrying max weights.
Never any wheelspin even with 120psi those days but then I only had 300 odd horsepower and more driver feel for the road with the older vehicles.

Progress has brought it’s own problems it seems

An old now passed friend/relation and i had quite a few discussions about such matters as power etc, we came to the conclusion that with all the emission equipment and the generally smaller in swept volume modern engines (when compared to a 14 litre ■■■■■■■■ you now need something like 500hp to put the same amount of useable at a moment’s notice torque and be as driveable as a decent 300/320 would give you in the 80’s when we’d upped to 38t.

Also the drive axle is doing a hell of a lot more work now but with often less weight imposed on it with a modern 6 axle vehicle than a 4 axled artic of previous design would have to shift, even if the drive axles of both designs were grossing off at 10tons the 6 axle jobbie’s axle is having to drive anything up to 12 more tons from the same 4 tyres, plus as we know with steel sprung trailer axles of old where invariably the trailer sat higher at the front then in practice the 4th axle weight was often higher by quite a bit than axle 3 if you put them over an axle weigher, in effect putting more weight still onto the drive axle.

When 38tons came less percentage of GVW wopuld be imposed on the drive axle in theory but lots of existing trailers were converted simply by bunging another steel sprung axle in front of the two already fitted, few gave the slightest thought to weight distribution, one instance i can recall was a bulk tipper trailer had another axle slung underneath, after a few weeks i happened upon an axle weigher at a modern farm, shockingly the three trailer axles grossed out at 5t 7t and 12t respectively, that was sent for immediate resolve but shows how poor some conversions were at the time where no one doing the conversions had paid any attention to the weights attained after.
A lot of those trailers were designed and built when artics had fixed fifth wheels and were lower riding as a result, stick a slider on and the front of the trailer’s gone up another 3" exacerbating the problem.

I regularly use an axle weigher and note the weights carefully, invariably at 43 tons gross there’s only some 9.5 tons being imposed on the drive axle if someone else who may not pay much attention to such things has loaded the trailer, i try to get the drive axle up to 10 tons at least because the whole outfit is noticeably more stable on the road and even that 500/1000kg less can translate into wheelspin pulling away and on roundabouts where it wouldn’t be the case @ 10,200+.
Note how easy these new designs get stuck in the smallest of snowfalls, though there are advantages to full air suspensions in that there are several ways to impose much more weight onto the drive axle, up to around 15tons if you know how…not as you’d run like obviously that but to get up an incline instead of blocking the road up for hours, well it makes sense.

Going back to the days of 32 ton work, it always seemed to be 900 x 20s that blew out seldom would 1000 x 20’s blow on the same work or weights.
For those not familar with split rim sizes, a 10 x 22.5 was the equivalent of a 900, an 11 x 22.5 equivalent to 1000 x 20.


What mpg could one expect from this on motorways and dual carriageways running solo at 17 tonne to 26 tonne cheers Dan .

Punchy Dan:
0
What mpg could one expect from this on motorways and dual carriageways running solo at 17 tonne to 26 tonne cheers Dan .

Trading in the DAF in drag Dan ? :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

blue estate:

Punchy Dan:
0
What mpg could one expect from this on motorways and dual carriageways running solo at 17 tonne to 26 tonne cheers Dan .

Trading in the DAF in drag Dan ? :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Cheeky ZB DAF :open_mouth: Foden ! :laughing: