Hi all.
I have encountered the same problem and we cannot tip the cab. It seems bolted down. I have taken it to a lorry specialist who also cannot solve this problem.
Was a solution found?
Thank you.
dieseldave:
cav551:
Maybe the pictures will jog the memory of when I used to work on the things, but it was a long time ago. I have a nagging feeling that similar to other lorries of the period there was something else which had to be done before releasing the two catches, like rotating the D series gear lever or disconnecting the steering U/J on the Terrier. Like all of the systems the lever in the cab must be released first otherwise the cab can jam. This morphed into the MAN G90 around about the date of your vehicle. This lorry had several incarnations and model names so have a good look around since IIRC some were hydraulically tilted.That’s a very fair point cav551, I’d completely forgotten about rotating the gear lever on the D series, so I’m now sharing your nagging feeling.
You mentioned the Leyland Terrible… Aaargh!!
And don’t forget the big lever screw in the rear of the cab.
Asterixed:
Hi all.I have encountered the same problem and we cannot tip the cab. It seems bolted down. I have taken it to a lorry specialist who also cannot solve this problem.
Was a solution found?
Thank you.
Like so many of these requests for help contibutors reply with advice, and that is the last we hear about the issue. So no, we don’t know if what was said fixed the problem or whether something else did or if it was permanently secured. If it is a horsebox there is every possibility some prat bolted the thing down. Take it to a M.A.N. dealer, there may be someone still working with them who recalls the things.
RELEASING THE MAN 8.136 TILT CAB.
This is information from a driver manual we prepared from a translation of the original Danish instruction manual for a VW-MAN 8.136 FAE (4x4) military truck as supplied to NATO armies. Much of the truck is common to the later MAN 8.136 and 8.150 commercial trucks and the G90 series trucks. Our truck is used as a snowlough/gritter, hence the reference to a snow plough.
2.5.5 Cab tilting, Figs. 2.5 & 2.6. (Don’t know how to post these pics)
To tilt the cab, first position the truck so that there is room for the cab to tilt forward. The snow plough will not hinder cab tilting. Then, lift UP the primary-catch lever, 1, Fig 2.5, behind the passenger seat until it clicks in the UP position (at about 45o). This permits release of the primary catch (but does not release it). Make sure there is no loose material that could fall and jam this lever when the cab tilts up or drops back down again.
Then, from outside the cab, pull the secondary release rod, Fig. 2.6, (behind the cab on the right) sharply outward, horizontally to release the primary and safety catches. The cab, helped by the built-in torsion bars, will spring up out of the latch a few inches. Push it up and forward until it is fully tilted, and the safety stay locks straight. DO NOT WORK UNDER THE CAB UNTIL THE SAFETY STAY HAS LOCKED IN THE STRAIGHT POSITION. Tilting the cab is easier if the cab doors are left open, but make sure there will be enough room for them when the cab tilts.
To lower the cab, ‘break’ the hinged safety stay so that it is no-longer straight, then, using the handle underneath the right-hand front mudguard, pull the cab down, finally jerking it sharply down onto the latch. Check that the primary catch has re-engaged (the lever in the cab should now be horizontal again).
IF THE CATCH WILL NOT RELEASE
The first task is to get the cab tilted so that you can do under it whatever it was that you needed to do, the second task is to find what was wrong and put it right before dropping the cab down again.
To release the cab, the easiest way is to unbolt the lower (non-tilting) part of the latch mechanism from the arched chassis frame above the gearbox. It is held to the frame by two M16 through bolts and nuts with rubber bushes between them. The whole latch assembly, still locked, will then lift off the chassis and tilt with the cab.
The mechanism needs to be on a bench to examine it. It is bolted to the rear of the cab by four M16 bolts with captive nuts (very tight!) and 2 other bolts with nuts. Having removed them, unscrew the self-tapping screw to detach the plastic bracket supporting the outside pull rod (Fig 2.6 above). Then wiggle the cab lever back through the hole in the cab to remove the unit. Removing the rubber grommet gives more ‘wiggle room’, as does raising the lever to the 45o position.
The first task is to get the catch to open. Mount the mechanism upside-down in a vice, put the cab lever in the release position (down, at 45o) and with a suitable drift from the side, push/knock the locking cam back away from the big pin so that the primary hook is released. If the pivots are stiff, you may have to knock the cam and/or the primary hook round to get them to move. Once the primary hook is open to release the big pin, the other half of the mechanism can be lifted off.
The next task is to get everything moving freely. WD40 and knocking each pivoted component to and fro will eventually do it. Patience! They are all spring loaded one way, so continue to work on them them until they are all free enough to spring back to their ‘home’ positions when you push them the other way. No ‘tight spots’! Note that the cam is spring loaded against the end of the primary hook, so there will always be some friction there unless the cam is held off the hook, which should otherwise rotate freely. Also free the secondary safety hook at the end (operated by the pull rod in Fig. 2.6) in the same way. Although the operation of this hook is completely separate from that of the primary catch, it is a lug on the pull rod that operates it that, at maximum travel, finally rotates the locking cam to release the primary hook.
Then see if the mechanism locks. You don’t need to use the other half (that makes everything a bit inaccessible). Just use a bar or piece of pipe about 25 mm diameter and smash it down quite hard on the primary hook. The hook should pivot across to trap the bar and the cam should immediately spring across under the action of its torsion spring to lock it in the SHUT position, trapping the bar permanently. Movement of the cam should simultaneously cause the release lever to pivot back into its horizontal position where it also locks the cam itself to prevent rotation – a sort of ‘double lock’ feature – the cam cannot be rotated until the lever is in the 45o release position and the primary hook cannot open until the cam rotates. Everything should now work properly. Moving the release lever to 45o will first release the cam so that it can rotate. When pull rod is then pulled out as far as it will go, the lug on it rotates the cam to release the primary hook which should then spring open.
Once you have reassembled the mechanism onto the cab again, check that it engages and releases as it should. If the safety hook still hangs on after the primary catch has released when the rod was pulled, it can be adjusted using the 13 mm AF nyloc nut on the inner end of the release rod. Only tighten this nut enough to JUST allow the safety hook to release when the rod is pulled out as far as it will go. Tightening too far will prevent the pull rod from moving far enough at maximum travel to rotate the cam sufficiently to release the primary hook. The cab should lift as soon as the primary catch is released, especially if the cab doors are open. Provided the safety hook has also released, it should spring up several inches to completely clear the fixed half of the mechanism. If it doesn’t, adjust the cab torsion bars to provide more support.
Enjoy!
VW-MAN 8.136 ROUND HEADLIGHTS
Another unrelated problem.
The 7" round headlights in the bumper are too low to shine over our snowplough. I want to move them up to the panels either side of the front flap (where the indicator lights are on the FAE 4x4). I have already moved the indicators to their (alternative) higher position. Some pictures of the commercial 8.136s show round headlights mounted exactly where I want ours to be, but I can’t find the two different side panels needed to accommodate them. The parts are listed by MAN but ‘no longer available’. Anyone know of a suitable source of these two panels? We do also have LED work lights mounted just below the windscreen, so we’re not ploughing in the dark! But it would be good to have headlights working as well - the work lights are not dip-able anyway.
The original poster made his request getting on for six years ago 
. I imagine he’s opened his can of worms by now! 
ERF-NGC-European:
The original poster made his request getting on for six years ago
Agree! But I saw that someone else also had the same problem this year, too (as we did) - and none of the earlier replies actually gave the correct info.
SNOWplough01:
ERF-NGC-European:
The original poster made his request getting on for six years agoAgree! But I saw that someone else also had the same problem this year, too (as we did) - and none of the earlier replies actually gave the correct info.
Excellent response 
! Keep it coming