Мои извинения, как раз попытанные для того чтобы быть funny
здесь. Of course вы правы. 
dennisw1:
That’s not good enough nightpilot……i want to see you apologise in Polish
Have yer pick 
ZMARTWIONY; KIEPSKI; NIEPOKAŹNY; MARNY; NĘDZNY
I have always been told that you should never use oil on the threads when refitting wheels although if you have alloys copperslip is allowed to stop the chemical reaction between steel and alloy.
Our wheels are fitted by the tyre department and the date fitted and Natrekken is written on the tyre, Check Nuts in Dutch.
We have a torque wrench in each depot and can use ATS if required.
Although I always carry out a visual check, looking for rusty water marks near the nuts or generally walk around the trailer several times while I am tipping with a pipe spanner, tapping any nuts and bolts I find.
VOSA do not use a Torque Wrench to check nuts, they use a toffee hammer
Interesting reading all the comments.
Wheel Nut:
Our wheels are fitted by the tyre department and the date fitted and Natrekken is written on the tyre, Check Nuts in Dutch.
You sure that`s not AFTREKKEN Malc?
We have Michelin written on our tyres
Wheel Nut:
Our wheels are fitted by the tyre department and the date fitted and Natrekken is written on the tyre, Check Nuts in Dutch.first time i read that i thought it said natkrekken whichi thought was an appropriate word
VOSA do not use a Torque Wrench to check nuts, they use a toffee hammer
as has been said before any thing mettalic can be used to check wheel nuts a slack nut will sound different to
a tight one
1.tapping with a small hammer will tell you if a nut is loose…its how vosa check the nuts at the roadside or indeed at mot time.
2.almost all nuts are torqued to 700 nm
3.the ONLY way to check them properly is with a torque wrench.
4.either after 30 minutes standing…or after no more than 50 miles the nuts should be rechecked with a torque wrench.
5."cracking"wheel nuts with a bar and pipe only overtightens them…which is the main cause of sheared studs.
6.wheel nut tags are an excellent visual check…if the tags dont line up you need to check the nuts properly.(another good thing with tags is that if you see melted tags then you may have a bearing problem,or a dragging brake.)normal braking should not cause tags to melt!
Could someone explain to me please what the reason this thread has been ressurected for after 3 years■■?
doubtful?
maybe we should remind ourselves of important stuff now and then■■?
Rick B:
Could someone explain to me please what the reason this thread has been ressurected for after 3 years■■?
You need to ask farmer
Clues to spotting loose wheel nuts is a rust coloured line running from the wheelnut to the rim…
Look for signs of shiny metal at the base of the nuts.
If the wheelnuts are hot after driving and the rest of the rim is cool that is a sure sign that the wheelnuts are loose.
dont ask me
i dont know my self
what i was lookin for was a thread i read a while ago that kinda explained the amount of wheel studs
eg 8studs usually = 10/17 tonner
10 studs usually= ?
but couldnt find it
I don’t know how using a torque wrench can over torque the nuts unless you’re using the wrench wrong.
The wrench we used to have broke in the middle when the nut was at sufficient torque, so you couldn’t tighten further. If you’re using one designed for cylinder head nuts etc, then that’s not the correct tool for the job.
We used to have to check all the nuts at least once a week in that job and that was 3 years ago. We each had a wrench supplied in the cab. They were not adjustable, they were preset. And I also check all the wheel nuts as part of my daily checks, rigid, artic whatever. Why wouldn’t I ? I’m being paid to do it anyway.
And vosa use the toffee hammer to check for cracks in the rim, the nuts are just a bonus. You’ll only show up a loose nut, not an incorrectly torqued one. Even a torque wrench can’t tell if a nut is over torqued, only under.
You can get an adjustable torque wrench that breaks in the middle, you can overtighten the nuts simply by carrying on turning even after the wrench has split. Would say thats down to poor training in its use.
VOSA are checking the nuts with the toffee hammer to see if their loose, never seen a VOSA inspector tap the rims for cracks.
On the lighter side not a bad toolkit, pen, clipboard and hammer.
nobody seems to have picked up on the fact that most overtightening is caused by over zealous operators of air powered windy guns.the amount of tyre fitters i see whacking the wheel nuts up,overtightening them in the process is unreal.this renders the torque wrench pointless,as they have probably just tightened the nuts way past their designated setting!.
i was always told,and did,as a fitter apply light oil to the threads.this reduces rust and risk of “snapping”.
i also bought a “toffee” hammer from b&q and find this invaluble when checking my nuts(no laughing).