Pat Hasler:
If the exhaust brake / Retarder doesn’t slow you in snow your foot brake deffinately will not.
Interesting view there. So if a brake working on one axle doesn’t work then you reckon the brakes working all axles, with ABS, won’t be any good either? I’m sorry but that’s rubbish. Come the snow the retarder on my Scania goes off after more than enough dodgy moments when I first started driving it in the snow.
Pat Hasler:
If the exhaust brake / Retarder doesn’t slow you in snow your foot brake deffinately will not.
Interesting view there. So if a brake working on one axle doesn’t work then you reckon the brakes working all axles, with ABS, won’t be any good either? I’m sorry but that’s rubbish. Come the snow the retarder on my Scania goes off after more than enough dodgy moments when I first started driving it in the snow.
believe me … i have a lot of experience of these very conditions and the exhaust brake has without a doubt saved me many times where the foot brake would have resulted in an accident.
However if you or anyone else feels differently thats your choice, I personally do not want to die or kill anyone else. I have 5 months of driving in average of 6 inches of snow ahead of me again and know what will save a lot of accidents.
ABS is a worldwide thing and doesn’t help me on snow and ice, in fact the on / off surges cause problems in such conditions, although they help in the wet.
Someone has just told me that on snow they always use the retarder, as for example, in a corner the outside wheels need to turn faster, the retarder will give correct breaking as it breaks before the diff. Unlike the foot break that breaks evenly at the wheels.
An interesting point. I hope this thread doesn’t turn into an argument as I’m picking up some good tips from both sides of the fence. The fact that there are still drivers in possestion of their lives from bosh sides of the breaks vs retarder debate is enough to proove that either side isn’t 100% wrong.
rigsby:
spot on pat , use the exhaust brake to test conditions , if it causes slip you know to be very cautious using the footbrake . smooth and steady will get you there , dave
That’s my technique, so long as traction control cuts out the exhaust brake once it slips, never use this whilst going around a corner because if you wanted jack knife that would be the technique! Infact you shouldn’t be braking whilst going around a corner! But if you have to don’t use the exhaust brake. If the exhaust brake test reveals It’s slippy then its time to turn it off. If you’re going down a long steep hill when white over, ie. Steep enough you need to crawl down, then on the foot brake all the way down with the exhaust brake off.
With all due respect to people driving big yank tanks, then different techniques may apply due to the much longer wheel base which should make them more resilient to jack knifing
I switch the retarder off too - I want my braking done through all of the axles
Just one other point - If its freezing outside don’t go to work without a sleeping bag and some food as you may get stuck out and you need to look after yourself
Some good points mentioned.
Temperature makes a huge difference,although in the U.K.not to the same extent,but the colder the better when it comes to traction on ice,eg last week I was running at 112kph on ice at minus 10c without problems,this week at +1c I couldn’t keep the old girl straight at 50kph.
Jakes are very useful in snow,cruise is a big NO,drive like you have a kettle of boiling water in your lap,and lastly,always do your braking in a straight line.
Check out the “Smith System” for defensive driving online,learn the 5 keys and put them into practice,you might be surprised,“see the big picture”,“leave yourself an out” etc etc.
I know,grandmothers sucking eggs…
Some good advice here, but basically take your time don’t be pushed by some knob in his V8, also by office staff. Use all the methods here if they stop you, they work!!!
But the biggest thing is to take your time and don’t be bullied to going faster than you are comfortable with!!!
Don’t brake and steer at the same time i.e coming to a junction all your braking should be done before you hit the junction, use extra caution round cars and lorrys both as daft as each other. If you jacknife it will most likely be because you’ve had to harsh brake because of poor driving in front of you.
If you’re overtaking on the motorway and the lane youre going into has snow in it - glide it in no sharp movements.
Fresh snow is actually quite easy to drive on your tyres bite into it, ice on the other hand :anguish:
Don’t go empty handed, a stove and stuff to eat can be handy, a decent coat and a sleeping bag too. If you get stuck - might not be your fault, if the road’s blocked, there’s nowhere to go - then it’d be nice to be warm, fed and wrapped up come bed time.
I also try not to use my retarder, but mine tries to jacknife the truck in the wet, never mind the ice.
I’ve had it where the trailer brakes must’ve been wound off or something (common on rental trailers apparantly) and I was gettin’ about 1/2 second trailer braking before unit brakes kicked in, unit brakes were much stronger and trying to jacknife the wagon on a downhill, so pumping and praying was the answer there.
So far, touch wood, not been stuck and no accidents due to the conditions, maybe I’m doing it right, maybe I’m lucky, but I’ll stick with the way I do it for now.
Oh, if you’re in a yard and can’t get traction, look for plants, they make excellent grit stand-ins when stuck under your drive tyres.
Fold up / collapsible shovel, bag of grit, high energy food and water (emergencies) blanket, warm clothing, book. On a side note you’ll look like a ■■■ but tights over your shoes gives you a surprising amount of grip.